Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: J. J., Jane Maurer - 2004
Page Views: 3,667 total · 29/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 25, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


280 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Formerly one of the few interesting trad lines at Bruise Brothers, Sweet Jane has now been retrobolted as a somewhat less remarkable sport route.

Follow a somewhat broken and nicely-featured dihedral up to a short left-leaning hand crack toward the top. Pull the crack and finish at the anchors under the big roof.

Location

Starts just left of Hey There Fancy Pants. Rap from the anchors.

Protection

Bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos

Mark Kauzlarich
Brooklyn
  5.8-
Mark Kauzlarich   Brooklyn
  5.8-
Misread the guidebook, and thought I just couldn't see the upper bolts. Makes it PG13 at least if you are like me and run this out. But that was all on me. Nice little climb though to warm up. Apr 3, 2010
Jon Marek
Spearfish, SD
 
Jon Marek   Spearfish, SD
 
Did this climb 5/17/10. Looks like it has been bolted. Also there is a new line of glue-in bolts to the left which is the same grade. May 24, 2010
Jody Koplo
Chicago, IL
Jody Koplo   Chicago, IL
Talked to Rick. Apparently people kept mistaking this for a sport climb because of the single bolt. Someone got hurt, so the whole route got bolted. Aug 2, 2010
Jeff Christbaum
Muskego, WI
  5.8-
Jeff Christbaum   Muskego, WI
  5.8-
In 2011 this was my first sport lead climb, and I really enjoyed it. The bolts where placed perfectly, in my opinion. Great holds at each spot, perfect for a new leader. I did the route a few more times early this year and it was still just as fun. Apr 30, 2012
Mike Gehle
  5.8-
Mike Gehle  
  5.8-
This was my first ever sport lead outdoors. I loved it! With my limited skills, it was challenging enough to keep me very focused, but didn't cause me to cry & soil myself (which is always a possibility). Great route!! May 7, 2012
PatrickBecerra
Hazel Park, MI
  5.8+
PatrickBecerra   Hazel Park, MI
  5.8+
This route has a few of the nice, big holds X'ed off. If you knock on them you can hear how hollow they are. The moves through this section are a bit harder when you don't get that one nice, fat flake up towards the middle. May 6, 2014
Gavin Alcott
Philadelphia PA
  5.8-
Gavin Alcott   Philadelphia PA
  5.8-
Careful when it rains a lot. Although most of the route stays dry, the finishing jugs can get rather soaked, making it much more difficult and heady to get to the chains. Would not recommend if the top is visibly wet. Aug 19, 2018