Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jared Hancock, Joel Bruhn, Tim Powers - 2004
Page Views: 8,949 total · 66/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 14, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


467 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Nice moderate sport route. Climb up the low-angle slabby start on balancy little knobs. Then climb up the steeper upper wall using good big holds.

Location

This is the farthest route to the right on the wall.

Protection

Bolts; bolted anchors at the top.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10a
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10a
This was my favorite lead at the Bruise Brothers area; maybe a little soft for a 10, but still pretty sustained most of the way. Rain was coming down steady, so the moves to the first bolt were soaking wet, but after that it was dry all the way. Hats off to my belayer for standing there getting soaked while I led it (well not quite soaked, he was wearing a poncho)! Oct 24, 2008
Mark Kauz
Madison, WI
  5.10a
Mark Kauz   Madison, WI
  5.10a
Fantastic climb. Had a little bit of everything, a slab on the knobs, a big juggy big move section, top section you get pumped, and the last bolt before the anchors I just sloped off the first time. Kind of surprising. Great stuff. Apr 3, 2010
Mike Gehle
  5.10a
Mike Gehle  
  5.10a
Because I'm a coward I opted to let my buddy lead this route & then I top roped it. It was a great climb. Doable as a lead. Decent holds & places to rest. Liked it a lot. I'll lead it next time. May 7, 2012
My first 5.10 at the Red...loved every struggling minute of it. Aug 6, 2013
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
might want to clip first bolt, bit dicey to it Jun 16, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
The footholds on this are rather polished now. Stick clip recommended. In fact, it looks like it was bolted with stick clipping the first bolt in mind. Oct 26, 2015
This route was awesome! Very sustained with no well defined crux. There's a great no hands rest about half way up as well! Jul 15, 2016
highneed
  5.9+
highneed  
  5.9+
Maybe I boulder too much, but I found a heel hook rest on almost every bolt. Perhaps my favorite 5.9 anywhere. Sep 7, 2016
Nick Haha
Baltimore, md
 
Nick Haha   Baltimore, md
 
I very much enjoyed this route all the way through the climb. It offered everything from sloppers, crimps, pockets, edges and technical climbing. A must do if your breaking into the 10 range. A stick clip isn’t a bad idea in the beginning with the spicy start. Oct 2, 2018