Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Dennis Rice, Mike Susko, Tim Powers
Page Views: 6,485 total · 48/month
Shared By: Justin Dansby on Jan 1, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


252 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Easy climbing leads to roof pulling on somewhat positive holds. Make a long reach up to the next hold over the roof, don't fall the last bolt is a long way down. I used a #4 camalot below the roof, to protect those moves. It's still not over once you get over the roof.

Location

Main route on prominent corner with small roof system. To the right of Don't Take Yer Guns to Town.

Protection

five bolts.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Okay climb; the finish is the most exciting part. Oct 24, 2008
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
  5.5
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
  5.5
Short and not particularly interesting except for the final overhung move (or two) to the anchors. The (new-ish?) 5.8 around the corner to the right is a better warmup. Oct 28, 2013
iclimegud  
 
I'm not entirely sure this is the right description for this route. The offering doesn't have a roof on it, and is only barely overhung at the top. The final moves to the chains can be a little heady for new leaders, but I've never seen anyone place gear. Jul 11, 2016
The bolt line goes right! NOT straight up! I made the mistake of going up and I was hanging on the roof of the 10c route for like ten minutes before someone told me I was on the wrong line! Oct 16, 2016
It would be comical to place gear on this beginner 5.7 lead, because after the second bolt all falls are over a huge drop, well below the belay... Apr 30, 2017
Benjamin Larson
Indianapolis, Indiana
  5.7+
Benjamin Larson   Indianapolis, Indiana
  5.7+
The line traverses right, no roof. As usual start is challenging. Mar 20, 2018