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Routes in Bruise Brothers Wall

A-Beano S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bee's Business S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CH4 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Critters on the Cliff S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dirt In Eye T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Take Yer Guns to Town S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flutterby Blue S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Get on the Good Foot T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hey There Fancy Pants S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Immodium AD T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jungle Trundler S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Viper S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Offering, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ohio Climbing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
P. Heist Rockway to Heaven, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pine Needle Shuffle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Put the Best Foot Forward T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rat Stew S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Redeye Brew S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Redriveroutdoors.com S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return of Manimal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Send Me on My Way S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Stay Off the Radio Jeff! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Jane S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Tomthievery (aka The Sultan Returns) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trundling Kentucky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Workin' For The Weekend S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jared Hancock, Rob Copeland - 2004
Page Views: 1,357 total · 14/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 23, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Private Property Details

Description

The guidebook calls this a "one-move wonder," but if you don't have some gas left to get to the anchors after the roof, your next move will be straight down.

Starting at a short dihedral, climb up and right to easy ground that leads up to a roof. Clip the bolt on the lip, then hand-traverse right before making a reachy move to pull the roof (crux). Continue straight up past the last bolt to anchors that are invisible until you're almost on top of them.

Location

Starts about 10' right of A-Beano.

Protection

Five bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos

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Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
No doubt that pulling the roof is the crux. I couldn't fire the big reach to the jug, so I was trying to bump to it off various crimps with a heel hook. 100% agree that even once you do pull the roof, the climb is not over. It didn't seem particularly well traveled to me, because there wasn't much chalk above the roof, and all the holds were super sharp. I was wandering around up there before I finally saw the anchors. Cleaning this route can be a bit of a pain too. With all that being said, I still recommend giving this one a go. Mar 19, 2012

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