Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jared Hancock, Rob Copeland - 2004
Page Views: 1,582 total · 14/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 23, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


104 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

The guidebook calls this a "one-move wonder," but if you don't have some gas left to get to the anchors after the roof, your next move will be straight down.

Starting at a short dihedral, climb up and right to easy ground that leads up to a roof. Clip the bolt on the lip, then hand-traverse right before making a reachy move to pull the roof (crux). Continue straight up past the last bolt to anchors that are invisible until you're almost on top of them.

Location

Starts about 10' right of A-Beano.

Protection

Five bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos

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Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
No doubt that pulling the roof is the crux. I couldn't fire the big reach to the jug, so I was trying to bump to it off various crimps with a heel hook. 100% agree that even once you do pull the roof, the climb is not over. It didn't seem particularly well traveled to me, because there wasn't much chalk above the roof, and all the holds were super sharp. I was wandering around up there before I finally saw the anchors. Cleaning this route can be a bit of a pain too. With all that being said, I still recommend giving this one a go. Mar 19, 2012
Alex Kauer
Royal Oak, MI
  5.10d
Alex Kauer   Royal Oak, MI
  5.10d
Real fun route, with the crux at the last bolt. Felt 10Dish to me, but I did climb between breaks in the rain. In my opinion, the big reach to a nice jug at the ledge is the crux. A left heel hook helped stick the jug, but so did by 6'7" wingspan. A few stronger climbers went left and mantled their way over the ledge and slowly moved to the bolts. Overall, this route has some excitement for being a 50ft jug hall with 1-2 hard moves. With Bruise Brothers being a rather busy wall and this route being sort of hidden, I would venture over to this short, but exciting climb. Oct 1, 2018