All Locations > Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley

South Side Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in South Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	Baraka T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bouldergeist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bound By Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sacrificial Solitude S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Samsara S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	950 ft	290 m
GPS:	37.72028, -83.62436 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,546 total · 41/month
Shared By:	Will Wright on Oct 2, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve Details

Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.

Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:

All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.

Description

This is a very newly developed area featuring a few short, bouldery lines as well as some mid grade quality trad routes. In the near future there will be some more sport routes as well. This is a good place to escape the crowds and climb in solitude.

As the (currently) most remote wall at Muir Valley, expect to encounter more of Nature than usual. If Bruisebrothers or Sunnyside are crowded, then just continue another 10 min down the trail and you'll likely have the cliff to yourself.

Many of the routes will stay dry in the rain.

Sun: Afternoon

Getting There

Follow approach to Bruisebrothers, but instead of going up the trail into Rebel Hollow continue following the scenic trail downstream along the east side of the creek (Middle Fork of Lower Devil Creek). Do not take the stairs or old logging road to the Bowling Alley, but instead continue into a flat area (veering slightly left, but not up the logging road that takes you to the Bowling Alley) into the bottom of Hatton Hollow and cross the small creek coming out of Hatton Hollow. Soon you'll see an old logging road going up to a wall across the hollow from the Bowling Alley. When you get to the top follow the road left for a few hundred feet and you'll hit the cliff. The routes will be to your right. Approach time is 10-15 min from clearing and bridge below the mouth of Rebel Hollow.

This west facing wall is on the south side of Hatton Hollow, directly across the creek from the Bowling Alley.

The Bowling Alley gets morning sun and the South Side wall gets afternoon sun.