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Routes in The Arsenal

Bathtub Mary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bullfighter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chicken Little Loves Abubu T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flesh Wound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Freakn'Deacon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Picador S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Quicksilver T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reload S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sacriledge S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kipp Trumel, Karen Clark 2005
Page Views: 6,167 total, 70/month
Shared By: Whitney Steiner on Aug 18, 2010 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


190 Opinions

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Description

Slabby start leads to a thin section. Well protected.

Protection

10 bolts, with fixed permadraw anchor.

Location

Starts 15 feet right of "Sacriledge" up the lower angle pocketed wall.
DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
Equipped with Climb Tech Top Anchor "Mussy" Hooks for your convenience. Please use these for lowering and cleaning only, please do not top rope through these. Jun 1, 2017
Douglas97
  5.11a
Douglas97  
  5.11a
My first outdoor 5.11 and I onsighted it. Amazing line, favorite route by far. Obvious crux, one big move around the fourth bolt when exiting the slab section. Don't miss out on the hueco rest before a juggy last 15 feet. Awesome undercling to get out of the hueco. Dec 12, 2015
S. Neoh
  5.11a
S. Neoh  
  5.11a
Very good route; so varied. Inside of heuco is now quite clean and the view out in the Fall is very nice. Seems like avoiding getting into the heuco is bypassing the line of weakness. Lower slab crux is delicate and techy while there are two burly moves to big jug high up. Fun all around and well bolted. Oct 26, 2015
AnneEA
5.11a
AnneEA  
5.11a
Cruxy slab at bottom, juggy and fun at the top. Love the hueco - super fun moves coming out of it. Nov 5, 2012
"Didnt think it was worth the energy getting into the hueco" lol

It takes zero effort getting into that thing. You traverse 5 feet on a jug rail and then crawl right in. What an odd comment... Aug 20, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Super Fun Climb, the slabby start is probably the most demanding part in my opinion. The hueco is a pretty unique feature, and I imagine the feature that gave this climb its name, so taking a sit down rest in it was pretty much a requirement, and it also made the top section super easy. The moves out of the hueco are fun and exposed!!

Do it, Take a BAth with Mary!!

Dec 5, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Get in the hueco and enjoy the sit down rest. The moves out are easy. Please add a full description of the climb when posting. Kipp Tremmel Karen Clark 2005 on the FA. May 9, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
I didn't think it was worth the energy to get into the hueco- just pulled through and fired for the top. Pretty pumpy that way, but full value! Oct 15, 2010
esha  
It would be somewhat hard to not use the hueco on this route, all though the no hands rest makes this one of the easiest 11's in the RRG. Oct 12, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.11a
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.11a
The hueco is pretty dirty, but everyone I've climbed with on this route has used the hueco. In fact, the moves out of the hueco are some of the funnest ones on the route. Aug 27, 2010
Whitney Steiner
Dover, NH
 
Whitney Steiner   Dover, NH
 
Don't get your body into the seemingly fun hueco at the top. Aug 18, 2010