Elevation: 1,028 ft
GPS: 37.735, -83.637 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 15,426 total · 116/month
Shared By: Tom Caldwell on Oct 7, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve Details

Description

South Facing wall that sees little traffic. Most of the classic routes have a difficult roof section to pull at the beginning, which then leads to easy, but pumpy climbing. During the warmer months, the trees block most of the sun trying to reach this wall. The rock is solid sandstone with lots of edges and slots.

Getting There

Hike towards the Solarium. When you reach the main trail that cuts along the base of the Solarium and the Great Arch, continue following this trail down a small hill and through a grassy meadow. Take the first left and follow this trail a short distance to the base of Sunbeam. The classic routes Sunbeam, Moonshine, and Out of the Dark all begin at the head of the trail. About 25 minutes from the parking lot.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sunbeam Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 102
Backstabber
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 113
Moonshine
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Revenge of the Sith
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 58
Sunbeam
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 64
Out of the Dark
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 25
Radical Evolution
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Predator
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 30
Morning Sun
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Prey
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Stems and Seeds
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Backstabber
 102
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Moonshine
 113
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Revenge of the Sith
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Sunbeam
 58
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Out of the Dark
 64
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Radical Evolution
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Predator
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Morning Sun
 30
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Prey
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Stems and Seeds
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
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