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Long Wall Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Long Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Approach, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
	Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Are The Pies Fresh? (to 1st set of anchors) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Big Country T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Block and Tackle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Boom! Boom! Out Go the Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Catharsis Wall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Chinese Checkers V2 5+
	Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Cruisemaster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Denial S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fire and Finesse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Gettin Dirty and Bleedin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Green Hornet V0 4
	Hidden Treasure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Magic School Bus V1 5
	Mailbox T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Next Day Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A X
	Oxytocin T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Perforator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rainy Day Grunt V0- 4-
	Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Route Less Traveled T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Rubus Fruticosus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sacred Geometry T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
	Samson Face T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Scrabble V0 4
	Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Spaceman Spiff V0+ 4+
	Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sugar daddy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Sunset T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Texas Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thunderdome V1 5
	Treasures in Heaven T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unlikely Heroes V1 5
	Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Wellspring T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Wooden Nickel V2 5+
	Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Elevation:	757 ft	231 m
GPS:	37.8446, -83.6686 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	140,207 total · 642/month
Shared By:	Chris Chaney on Oct 2, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

Long Wall is just that, a long unbroken barrier of Corbin Sandstone that makes up the north wall of the Red River Gorge, just west of the end of what is considered the Middle Gorge. It stretches for over a mile with only one point of top access, and that is at the extreme western end.

The routes are mostly trad, with a few sport and the average length is probably 80 feet. There are a few routes that go to the top, but the hood ornament routes Autumn and Rock Wars unfortunately do not. This only slightly diminishes their allure. Interestingly, many lesser quality routes we completed at Long Wall before these two moderate classics were put up. Why? "They didn't top out" an area hardman explained once.

Long Wall is a great area for adventure, but you can still relax on well travelled routes such as Autumn and Rock Wars as well as the testpiece The Gift and the hardman jaunt B3.

Getting There

From the iron (arn) bridge on hwy 77 take the gravel road west for a couple miles. Look for the Shield above a left curve in the road. Drive a bit further and look for a well used pulloff on the left with a distinct trail going uphill on the right. The trail is fairly obvious, if tricky all the way to the wall. To get to Autumn, Rock Wars, B3, and BIg Coutnry walk along the cliff right (east). To get to Vector Trouble and the top access walk left. GPS is for the parking area.

60 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Long Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 563 ● Autumn Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 16 ● Yuk Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 60 ● Hot September Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 40 ● Cruise Control Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 78 ● Vector Trouble Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 563 ● Rock Wars Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 20 ● Next Day Air Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 73 ● B3 Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R 39 ● Souders Crack Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 54 ● Game Boy Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 4 ● Are The Pies Fresh? (to 1st set… Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A X 8 ● Now I'm Nothing Trad, TR, Boulder
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 112 ● The Gift Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 23 ● Bloodline Trad
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 4 ● Sacred Geometry Trad 2 pitches