Elevation: 757 ft
GPS: 37.845, -83.669 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 110,328 total · 616/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 2, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

Description

Long Wall is just that, a long unbroken barrier of Corbin Sandstone that makes up the north wall of the Red River Gorge, just west of the end of what is considered the Middle Gorge. It stretches for over a mile with only one point of top access, and that is at the extreme western end.

The routes are mostly trad, with a few sport and the average length is probably 80 feet. There are a few routes that go to the top, but the hood ornament routes Autumn and Rock Wars unfortunately do not. This only slightly diminishes their allure. Interestingly, many lesser quality routes we completed at Long Wall before these two moderate classics were put up. Why? "They didn't top out" an area hardman explained once.

Long Wall is a great area for adventure, but you can still relax on well travelled routes such as Autumn and Rock Wars as well as the testpiece The Gift and the hardman jaunt B3.

Getting There

From the iron (arn) bridge on hwy 77 take the gravel road west for a couple miles. Look for the Shield above a left curve in the road. Drive a bit further and look for a well used pulloff on the left with a distinct trail going uphill on the right. The trail is fairly obvious, if tricky all the way to the wall. To get to Autumn, Rock Wars, B3, and BIg Coutnry walk along the cliff right (east). To get to Vector Trouble and the top access walk left. GPS is for the parking area.

39 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Long Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 68
Mailbox
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 436
Autumn
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 10
Yuk
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 45
Hot September
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 26
Cruise Control
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
Vector Trouble
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 431
Rock Wars
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 55
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 44
Back Door to Paris
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Next Day Air
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 52
B3
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 29
Souders Crack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 37
Game Boy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 88
The Gift
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 16
Bloodline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mailbox
 68
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Autumn
 436
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Yuk
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Hot September
 45
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Cruise Control
 26
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Vector Trouble
 53
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rock Wars
 431
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights
 55
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Back Door to Paris
 44
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Next Day Air
 10
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
B3
 52
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Souders Crack
 29
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad
Game Boy
 37
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Gift
 88
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bloodline
 16
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
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