Elevation: 757 ft
GPS: 37.8446, -83.6686
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 138,405 total · 696/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 2, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso RRG, Billy Simek
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

Description

Long Wall is just that, a long unbroken barrier of Corbin Sandstone that makes up the north wall of the Red River Gorge, just west of the end of what is considered the Middle Gorge. It stretches for over a mile with only one point of top access, and that is at the extreme western end.

The routes are mostly trad, with a few sport and the average length is probably 80 feet. There are a few routes that go to the top, but the hood ornament routes Autumn and Rock Wars unfortunately do not. This only slightly diminishes their allure. Interestingly, many lesser quality routes we completed at Long Wall before these two moderate classics were put up. Why? "They didn't top out" an area hardman explained once.

Long Wall is a great area for adventure, but you can still relax on well travelled routes such as Autumn and Rock Wars as well as the testpiece The Gift and the hardman jaunt B3.

Getting There

From the iron (arn) bridge on hwy 77 take the gravel road west for a couple miles. Look for the Shield above a left curve in the road. Drive a bit further and look for a well used pulloff on the left with a distinct trail going uphill on the right. The trail is fairly obvious, if tricky all the way to the wall. To get to Autumn, Rock Wars, B3, and BIg Coutnry walk along the cliff right (east). To get to Vector Trouble and the top access walk left. GPS is for the parking area.

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Long Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 87
Mailbox
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 500
Autumn
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 13
Yuk
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 52
Hot September
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 35
Cruise Control
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 65
Vector Trouble
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 503
Rock Wars
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 64
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 51
Back Door to Paris
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 14
Next Day Air
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 65
B3
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 35
Souders Crack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 49
Game Boy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 99
The Gift
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 19
Bloodline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mailbox
 87
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Autumn
 500
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Yuk
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Hot September
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Cruise Control
 35
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Vector Trouble
 65
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rock Wars
 503
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights
 64
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Back Door to Paris
 51
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Next Day Air
 14
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
B3
 65
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Souders Crack
 35
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad
Game Boy
 49
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Gift
 99
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bloodline
 19
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
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