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Routes in Long Wall

Approach, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Country T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Finess S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mailbox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Next Day Air T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A X
Now I'm Something V1 5
Perforator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacred Geometry T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Description [Suggest Change]

Long Wall is just that, a long unbroken barrier of Corbin Sandstone that makes up the north wall of the Red River Gorge, just west of the end of what is considered the Middle Gorge. It stretches for over a mile with only one point of top access, and that is at the extreme western end.

The routes are mostly trad, with a few sport and the average length is probably 80 feet. There are a few routes that go to the top, but the hood ornament routes Autumn and Rock Wars unfortunately do not. This only slightly diminishes their allure. Interestingly, many lesser quality routes we completed at Long Wall before these two moderate classics were put up. Why? "They didn't top out" an area hardman explained once.

Long Wall is a great area for adventure, but you can still relax on well travelled routes such as Autumn and Rock Wars as well as the testpiece The Gift and the hardman jaunt B3.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

From the iron (arn) bridge on hwy 77 take the gravel road west for a couple miles. Look for the Shield above a left curve in the road. Drive a bit further and look for a well used pulloff on the left with a distinct trail going uphill on the right. The trail is fairly obvious, if tricky all the way to the wall. To get to Autumn, Rock Wars, B3, and BIg Coutnry walk along the cliff right (east). To get to Vector Trouble and the top access walk left. GPS is for the parking area.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Long Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 6
Big Country
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 43
Mailbox
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 309
Autumn
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 6
Yuk
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
Hot September
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 21
Cruise Control
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Vector Trouble
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 305
Rock Wars
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 38
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 32
Back Door to Paris
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 39
B3
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 15
Souders Crack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 22
Game Boy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 59
The Gift
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Bloodline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Big Country
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Mailbox
 43
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Autumn
 309
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Yuk
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Hot September
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Cruise Control
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Vector Trouble
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rock Wars
 305
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights
 38
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Back Door to Paris
 32
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
B3
 39
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Souders Crack
 15
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad
Game Boy
 22
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Gift
 59
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bloodline
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
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Did you lose a nice quality wool shirt at long wall during the week of october 15?

Let me know what brand and color the shirt is and I will get it back to you!

Eric Oct 18, 2015

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