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Routes in Long Wall

Approach, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a R
Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Country T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Finess S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mailbox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Next Day Air T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A X
Now I'm Something V1 5
Perforator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacred Geometry T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill McCullough, Tim Powers, 11/'90
Page Views: 5,816 total · 41/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 9, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

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A great climb with a dual personality. I found the crux to be on the thin and insecure face climbing down low, but the steep rock on the second half still has a kick to it.


Not far to the right of the big Rockhouse of Autumn and Rock Wars, you will encounter a bolted thin face ascending up and right to a steep bulge. Climb this to a ledge with anchors.


9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor these days. There were once only 6.


Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Got too scared of the bolts... its in bad shape. Apr 17, 2010
Dustin Clelen
Boulder, CO
Dustin Clelen   Boulder, CO
As of October, 2011, the bolts on this puppy are in fine shape. The first one is a drilled angle that's sticking out a good inch or so, but it's solid (similar to a lot of anchors in Zion, but with rock that's way more solid). I can't quite remember, but I think it may even be glued in place. The only slightly runout section is where the slab stops and the headwall starts. It's not bad though, deadpoints (for me) to progressively bigger jugs.

Bottom line: DO IT! Nov 3, 2011
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
This thing has incredible climbing. (though height dependent) I'm 5'9" with a pretty neutral wingspan and everything felt just about right, but my partner who's a few inches shorter than me had a way harder time. Seems like the move at the 4th bolt can be (and is?) done a few different ways. Hand traversing right seemed easier than trying to go straight up.

The bolts definitely could use some attention. Right now they're all expansion bolts (excepting the drilled angle at the start. Why is that thing there?) and the majority of them are disturbingly corroded. (especially above the slab) Someone put an extra bolt inches away from the bolt above the roof which is nice because of all the rust, but leaving the original there is kind of a hack job. This route is incredible and deserves to be equipped with good hardware! Mar 28, 2015
Mike Mellenthin
San Francisco, CA
Mike Mellenthin   San Francisco, CA
This route is all time!

If you clip the non-rusty bolt of the two that are side by side, make sure to face your gates to the right. I faced them left and the second bolt pushed the gate open when I climbed past. If only for this reason one of those should be pulled. But keep the drilled angle! Adds character. Mar 24, 2016
Big Ears  
One of the most fun routes at any grade! I found the crux to be getting in a clipping stance for the last bolt. but after cleaning it on TR after a Send Train found some holds I missed the first go around. After all that I would agree the crux is the slabby face! A must do for anyone remotely near 5.12 Apr 19, 2016
Really hard on sight... amazing route, very memorable!! Dec 7, 2016
The name came-I think-from Tim and Bill finding this route incomplete. I spotted the line bouldering at the base and tried piecing it together. Later called in Matt Flach to help bolt, clean, and unlock the upper section. Didn't quite get it finished before we left for Colorado. I remember gorgeous moves and rock! Way to go Tim and Bill!!! Dec 19, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.12a PG13
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.12a PG13
I took the fall from the headwall (the one you are going to worry about when you look at this route) and busted my ankle a little bit. The fall is honestly not as bad as it looks, but there is still definitely a reasonable chance of doing some damage to your ankles so I'd say be solid on the grade or don't get on this (and a hot, humid day was not a good choice). The climbing was still very much "on" way above that first bolt on the headwall and in the moment I was pretty pissed about the bolting job. With that said, the climbing on this route is truly exceptional - some of the most insane, technical moves I've ever had the pleasure of figuring out and doing. May 17, 2018

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