Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Long Wall

Approach, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Country T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Finess S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mailbox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Next Day Air T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A X
Now I'm Something V1 5
Perforator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacred Geometry T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: B Baker, M Hackworth, '77. FFA:T Seibert, M. Hackworth, '88
Page Views: 882 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start up a hand crack and muscle your way up this and into an awkwardly wide/thin squeeze to the top of the wall. The crux is the exhaustion dealing with the rounded edges of this and trying to feel secure in it. I thought that 5.7 was a sandbag grade, but it was early in my climbing career and perhaps my technique was poor. Top out and set and anchor back from the edge a ways on trees and belay up your partner- enjoying the grunts ans squeals from below if it makes you feel any better about your ascent. (it made me feel better about mine)

Location

From the approach Trail, walk left a ways towards the standard walk-off and continue until just before a large roof looms over a corner. THe wall is ~100' tall here. Two Step climbs the hand-to-fist crack that gets wide up top, in a right-facing corner.

Protection

A standard rack plus a few big pieces. I didn't have anything big or any doubles and I had to run it out. Perhaps someone can comment to advise on an ideal rack.

Photos

Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This was actually really fun if you like a good gruntfest. The offwidths and chimneys come in a variety of sizes. The very top is a bona-fide squeeze chimney, which is difficult to get into as the start has no feet. Oct 2, 2017
Dustin Stephens
  5.8+
Dustin Stephens  
  5.8+
Thought this route was pretty good actually with a very cool topout. Consider bringing a sling or two to beef up the rock-thread rap anchor. Jun 13, 2013
sherb  
Rating: Agree with route contributor - 5.7 seems like a sandbag rating. The "rounded edges" as the route contributor said, doesn't feel secure becuase it is sandy, and the "sugar cookie" crystals can get in your eye as you try to climb it.


Stars: Not sure why this got 3 stars in *the* guidebook- agree w/ MP... it is one star, unless you just bought some big cams and need to test it out.

Bring medium and 1-2 big cams - #6 BD C4 or #6 WC Friend, or maybe a #5 can be used for the 2nd #6. We only had 1 #6 and moved it around. Or, equivalent big bro (#3), depending on your placment skills. May 14, 2013