New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Start up a hand crack and muscle your way up this and into an awkwardly wide/thin squeeze to the top of the wall. The crux is the exhaustion dealing with the rounded edges of this and trying to feel secure in it. I thought that 5.7 was a sandbag grade, but it was early in my climbing career and perhaps my technique was poor. Top out and set and anchor back from the edge a ways on trees and belay up your partner- enjoying the grunts ans squeals from below if it makes you feel any better about your ascent. (it made me feel better about mine)
From the approach Trail, walk left a ways towards the standard walk-off and continue until just before a large roof looms over a corner. THe wall is ~100' tall here. Two Step climbs the hand-to-fist crack that gets wide up top, in a right-facing corner.
A standard rack plus a few big pieces. I didn't have anything big or any doubles and I had to run it out. Perhaps someone can comment to advise on an ideal rack.