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Routes in Long Wall

Approach, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Country T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Finess S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mailbox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Next Day Air T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A X
Now I'm Something V1 5
Perforator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacred Geometry T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nick and Beth Cocciolone
Page Views: 1,066 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 9, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A good long route with a hard crux. One can bail from anchors at 70' for a 5.11 climb, or make some excuse about something and belay there to rest and make your partner lead the tricky 5.12 moves on the "second pitch."
You need 2 ropes to get down, or a 70m rope.

Location

The next sport route left of "Back Door To Paris" is about 20 meters left of the "Perforator" corner. It goes ALMOST all the way to the top. Its neighbor "Game Boy" goes all of the way and is actually a little easier.

Protection

13 bolts plus slings for the anchors.

Photos

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Jack Sparrow
denver, co
 
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
 
I agree with Steiner the first pitch is awesome and the crux on the upper pitch is cool but the rest of the route sucks. Prolly better to stop a pitch one Nov 29, 2016
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
 
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
 
The first pitch is a totally classic and technical 5.11C that takes alot of technique but not much pumpy power. It is a really good line with lots of good crimps moving up a steep face. Vertical to sometimes less than vertical, it ends at two bolts. The second pitch is only worth doing for the 10 feet after the first set of bolted anchors (this is the crux) because after the crux it is much less than classic, mossy, and ends at some manky sling anchors. Oct 27, 2008