Type: Sport, 70110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nick and Beth Cocciolone
Page Views: 1,216 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 9, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

A good long route with a hard crux. One can bail from anchors at 70' for a 5.11 climb, or make some excuse about something and belay there to rest and make your partner lead the tricky 5.12 moves on the "second pitch."
You need 2 ropes to get down, or a 70m rope.

Location

The next sport route left of "Back Door To Paris" is about 20 meters left of the "Perforator" corner. It goes ALMOST all the way to the top. Its neighbor "Game Boy" goes all of the way and is actually a little easier.

Protection

13 bolts plus slings for the anchors.

Photos

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S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
 
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
 
The first pitch is a totally classic and technical 5.11C that takes alot of technique but not much pumpy power. It is a really good line with lots of good crimps moving up a steep face. Vertical to sometimes less than vertical, it ends at two bolts. The second pitch is only worth doing for the 10 feet after the first set of bolted anchors (this is the crux) because after the crux it is much less than classic, mossy, and ends at some manky sling anchors. Oct 27, 2008
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
 
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
 
I agree with Steiner the first pitch is awesome and the crux on the upper pitch is cool but the rest of the route sucks. Prolly better to stop a pitch one Nov 29, 2016