Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Noah Havlik, Fallon Frierson FFA Noah Havlik, Jack Browning
Page Views: 92 total · 61/month
Shared By: Noah Havlik on May 31, 2024
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

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Description Suggest change

Spy the hanging dihedral halfway up the wall as you walk right of B3. Down and right of the corner you can track the Rat Jaw ledge where it meets with a black, water stained face.

P1 Rat Jaw 10a: Start in the shallow dihedral on high quality stone and transition left to the face about 30ft up via a large foot ramp. Continue straight up and either climb left or right to access the ledge (left is better climbing and better for rope drag, right is easier). Runner the transition to the traverse well (quad length sling handy) and “crawl” your way across the ledge with toe jams, knee bars, and enough handholds to get you through. Belay in the alcove beneath the corner (.75,2x#1,.5 are enough though you could place more).

P2 Annie Proulx Open Book 11+: A steep roof pull gives way to a nest building stance. Build your gear nest and commit to the first technical crux. Cruise up to the base of the beautiful corner. RPs, Offset nuts, and small, narrow head cams protect the crack. Gear is good, though strenuous to place. Decipher the stemming sequence and save a #1 or #4 to protect the exit moves to the bomber hanging belay in the splitter crack above (.75,.5,.4, &.3 fit for anchor). 

P3 Pitch Black Arch 5.9: Traverse right under the arch for 60ft with good protection. Reach a weakness after a large ledge transition to climb straight up on positive holds. Mantle and belay from a tree. Watch rope drag. Bring a headlamp, walk off climbers left.  

Location Suggest change

Walk right of B3 and look for the hanging dihedral. Start down and right in a shallow right facing dihedral of quality dark colored stone. 

Protection Suggest change

Double rack .1-#3, 4x.3, 3x #1, 1x#4, 70m rope, belay from tree and walk off climbers left.