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Routes in Long Wall

Approach, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Country T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Finess S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mailbox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Next Day Air T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A X
Now I'm Something V1 5
Perforator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacred Geometry T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Tim Powers 1990
Page Views: 1,353 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

NIN. A good boulder problem if you are a boulderer, and 3* for that, but not much of a route. Climb up the center of the steep rock, facing the climbs Autumn and Rock Wars. The moves are thin and balancey and the crux high enough for a fall to screw up your day. There were a lot of jagged rocks below it in 1994. More recent reports suggest that this may have been cleared/flattened.

Location

Walk right from the approach trail along the wall until you stand below a massive light-colored roof, a few hundred feet up. There is a large boulder under this, perhaps 15 feet back from the wall. A left-facing obtuse corner in orange/brown rock on the left has a hand-crack (Autumn) and a right-facing obtuse corner is on the right with a thinner crack and lighter rock (Rock Wars). If you turn around and face the boulder behind you, you will see a steep, flat face with thin holds going up it. This is Now I'm Nothing.

Protection

Protection? This is a high-ball boulder problem, a TR or a solo. I don't know for sure the FA info, but I soloed it after a TR in 1993 or 1994. If the bottom were to be terraced (perhaps it has been since 94?) it wouldn't be much of a high-ball anymore and a few pads and a spotter would do.

Photos

Tim Powers
Indiana
Tim Powers   Indiana
FA, Tim Powers 1990, no pad 2 spotters.Informed John B, but he did not add to guidebook at the time. Nov 16, 2013
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
The base is much more comfortable now. You still need a pad or two.

Also check out the blunt arete to the left and the slab left of that. This can easily be top roped as well. Oct 5, 2006