Type: Trad, TR, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Tim Powers 1990
Page Views: 1,645 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

NIN. A good boulder problem if you are a boulderer, and 3* for that, but not much of a route. Climb up the center of the steep rock, facing the climbs Autumn and Rock Wars. The moves are thin and balancey and the crux high enough for a fall to screw up your day. There were a lot of jagged rocks below it in 1994. More recent reports suggest that this may have been cleared/flattened.

Location

Walk right from the approach trail along the wall until you stand below a massive light-colored roof, a few hundred feet up. There is a large boulder under this, perhaps 15 feet back from the wall. A left-facing obtuse corner in orange/brown rock on the left has a hand-crack (Autumn) and a right-facing obtuse corner is on the right with a thinner crack and lighter rock (Rock Wars). If you turn around and face the boulder behind you, you will see a steep, flat face with thin holds going up it. This is Now I'm Nothing.

Protection

Protection? This is a high-ball boulder problem, a TR or a solo. I don't know for sure the FA info, but I soloed it after a TR in 1993. If the bottom were to be terraced (perhaps it has been since 94?) it wouldn't be much of a high-ball anymore and a few pads and a spotter would do.

Photos

Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
The base is much more comfortable now. You still need a pad or two.

Also check out the blunt arete to the left and the slab left of that. This can easily be top roped as well. Oct 5, 2006
Tim Powers
Indiana
Tim Powers   Indiana
FA, Tim Powers 1990, no pad 2 spotters.Informed John B, but he did not add to guidebook at the time. Nov 16, 2013
Crownjun _  
 
I stumbled across this gem when my crew went up to climb Rock Wars. As a boulderer who likes striking highballs, this was a must-climb. We had no crash pads, so I worked it from a fixed line repeatedly until I was confident I wouldn't fall. One of my most memorable climbing experiences, it was also the first time I had pseudo-trad climbed via top rope and it was on the legendary Rock Wars!

youtube.com/watch?v=AZeTNo7… Nov 8, 2018