Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Lou Gonano, John Long, 1985
Page Views: 5,260 total · 45/month
Shared By: Adam Leedy on Apr 28, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

More of a mental crux than a technical one. The moves all of the way seemed pretty straight forward. The top to the anchors was tough for me to reach and pull to the ledge so I hand traversed the ledge to the anchors. My taller partner was able to reach above the ledge and pull up sooner. This seemed like the crux move to me

Location

Starts at the base of Rock Wars and does a rising traverse to the anchors of Autumn

Protection

Pro is easy straight forward as long as you are able to trust the flake. The flake is thin and convincing yourself that it isn't going to break off in a fall seems like what made the route 5.9

Photos

Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
THis route was absolutely pure fun, in a puckered sort of way. Really cool climb. Apr 17, 2010
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
Best (and most impossible) flake I have ever pulled on. Aug 27, 2013
Dom R
Bend, OR
 
Dom R   Bend, OR
 
Unreal that a flake like this exists at the red, sooo much fun. Definitely a mental crux though, you can feel the flake vibrate in your feet when you drag a cam around behind it. A lot of people on the redriverclimbing page say bring x number of this size cam, but honestly, just don't fall. Mar 22, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.9 R
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.9 R
Led this onsight this past weekend and was in for quite the surprise. This thing is really sketchy; don't get on it if you have any doubt about leading scary 5.9. That being said, the climbing is fucking awesome! Bring a bunch of #2 C4s (I had 2, 4 would have been nice, it's 100 feet long). Other gear will work too but the #2s can get deeper and have a better chance of holding.

DON'T FALL! Apr 17, 2017
Daniel James
2018/19: Bristol, England
  5.8
Daniel James   2018/19: Bristol, England
  5.8
Incredibly fun route! Purely by moves distinctly easier than Autumn I and my partners felt, hence why I put it at a 5.8. However considering the thin-ness of the flake and in particular the large flake towards the beginning I would not want to fall on this, particularly with cam placements that will push directly outward.

Shares anchors with Autumn, but easy to pass over someone just before the bulge on Autumn if lowering or rapping. Oct 16, 2017