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Routes in Long Wall

Approach, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Country T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Finess S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mailbox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Next Day Air T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A X
Now I'm Something V1 5
Perforator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacred Geometry T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: J Koenig, T. Souders, F. Andrews, 1984.
Page Views: 3,972 total, 29/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A hard climb with some interesting gear. While I have seen this described as a handcrack in some versions of guides, I beg to differ. It is more a series of pods and flares with some crack between, and even then not really such a size so as to be called a handcrack.
Locate the pair of climbs, Perforator and B3. Perhaps 5 meters left of Perforator, boulder/climb some pockets up and at the bottom of a crack (5.10, PG13) and get some gear ASAP. Climb the "crack system" with interesting jams and holds (5.11-) to a ledge and then finish in a corner that is not hard in and of itself (5.9?), but given the exhaustion, will probably feel hard.

Location

On the right side of Long Wall. Walk past the big offwidth (Yuk) and go around a corner and past a group of several very tall sport routes. Just past these is a huge roof almost against a large left-facing corner. The corner to the roof is Perforator, the "crack" left of that is B3.

Protection

A standard rack to 3" with emphasis on the 2" size. Mid-sized tricams were useful in the only ascent of this route that I have made.
Double ropes to rap off, or access anchors from one of the sport routes and rap down in a series.

Photos

James E
Cleveland, OH
 
James E   Cleveland, OH
 
Go do this line, it's amazing! Pink tricam is crucial. Oct 19, 2015
calvino
Marblemount, WA
 
calvino   Marblemount, WA
 
I climbed this a couple days and can't stop talking about it. It is definitely not a hand crack, as the guide book suggests. There was about 10 feet of hands and some very thoughtful face climbing and stemming. This is a bold lead but the crux moves are above good gear. FUN. Oct 9, 2012
khoa
Tacomarado
 
khoa   Tacomarado
 
70m will make it back down to the ground past the ledge comfortably. Got in a red tcu and pink tricam at the top before the runout dihedral. Apr 23, 2012
Sam Stephens  
 
Gear spoiler for the top, plug a green alien size piece at the very bottom of the dihedral before you run to the chains. Jun 20, 2011
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
 
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
 
I think the PG-13 might be directed more at the top dihedral, I couldn't find any gear. Its plenty safe but does take some courage. The beginning is best protected by a 2 #2 C4's extended. The crack is wide and flaring so wider gear doesn't really set well. This climb is a hoot and a must do traditional line. May 29, 2011
I don't think it's really pg-13 because if you use the guidebook method, and climb the first 20ish feet of Perforator and then traverse into B3, you can place gear on Perferator using long slings to minimize rope drag before traversing left to begin B3. I walked a #2 c4 as high as possible, but anything up to probably #4 would work there depending on how secure you feel on the lower wideish part. Given that it's not too hard, one might not feel the necessity to place gear at all on this lower section, but it is available.

Amazing climb! One of the best trad lines I've done. Mar 21, 2011
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
 
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
 
Great climb, it's got a bit of everything from easy offwith to hands, fingers, face, and stemming. Whether or not the splitter is a "handcrack," there are most definitely handjams (and finger locks) in it. [BETA ALERT] Crux is between the splitter and the lay-down rest-ledge Mar 29, 2010