Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: T. Souders, J. Koenig, L Stockburger, 1984
Page Views: 2,181 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Just right of B3 is this pumpy climb. Wile the moves are not hard, a lot of them are a struggle and some can be brute-force. I believe cooler weather may be better for this climb, as it likely got its name from it's tendency to create holes- better in some crappy climbing clothes than in the climber!
Climb up a big block (5.easy) and then place pro and head up the corner. No truly wide gear is needed, but a #4 camalot is useful for sure. Continue to the roof up top and pull the crux, a powerful move, and pop up over the top. Belay from some cord on trees back from the edge.

Location

On the right side of Long Wall. Walk past the big offwidth (Yuk) and go around a corner and past a group of several very tall sport routes. Just past these is a huge roof almost against a large left-facing corner. The corner to the roof is Perforator, the "crack" left of that is B3.

Protection

A standard rack with cams to 4" and some longer slings.

Photos

rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
 
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
 
Gear: hands to fists. A # 4 will protect the run to the roof. Roof takes .75/.5 C4's. Really wide above but can get a few pieces right after the roof (offset blue/yellow works really well as does a purple C4).

Has a bolted anchor at the top. A single 60 will get you down to the top of the block but not the ground. Apr 23, 2012
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.11a
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.11a
I can't possibly think of a way this could be called 5.10a, that roof is fucking hard. You pull a roof on shitty flared hands into a muddy offwidth. Maybe I just sucked but either way, be ready to try really fkin hard at the roof. Otherwise the rest of the climb is amazing, 5 stars!

My partner and I agreed that the roof was the hardest thing we have ever tried anywhere that was called a 5.10. Apr 17, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I remember someone once asking me about a different climb:
Q: "So it's 5.9+, but it is wet, what rating would it get?"
A: "I dunno. Wet 5.9."

Sounds like you got on a wet 5.10a. On a friction-dependent crux, it might be anywhere between 5.10a and impossible. Apr 17, 2017
Daniel James
2018/19: Bristol, England
5.10c
Daniel James   2018/19: Bristol, England
5.10c
Consensus at Red River Climbing is 10c, and I feel agreeable to that. No matter what, this is strongly a step or two up from Rock Wars. Wonderfully fun and tough climb. Oct 15, 2017