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Routes in Long Wall

Approach, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Country T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Finess S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mailbox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Next Day Air T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A X
Now I'm Something V1 5
Perforator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacred Geometry T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: T. Souders, J. Koenig, L Stockburger, 1984
Page Views: 1,997 total, 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Just right of B3 is this pumpy climb. Wile the moves are not hard, a lot of them are a struggle and some can be brute-force. I believe cooler weather may be better for this climb, as it likely got its name from it's tendency to create holes- better in some crappy climbing clothes than in the climber!
Climb up a big block (5.easy) and then place pro and head up the corner. No truly wide gear is needed, but a #4 camalot is useful for sure. Continue to the roof up top and pull the crux, a powerful move, and pop up over the top. Belay from some cord on trees back from the edge.

Location

On the right side of Long Wall. Walk past the big offwidth (Yuk) and go around a corner and past a group of several very tall sport routes. Just past these is a huge roof almost against a large left-facing corner. The corner to the roof is Perforator, the "crack" left of that is B3.

Protection

A standard rack with cams to 4" and some longer slings.

Photos

Daniel James
Chicago
5.10c
Daniel James   Chicago
5.10c
Consensus at Red River Climbing is 10c, and I feel agreeable to that. No matter what, this is strongly a step or two up from Rock Wars. Wonderfully fun and tough climb. Oct 15, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
I remember someone once asking me about a different climb:
Q: "So it's 5.9+, but it is wet, what rating would it get?"
A: "I dunno. Wet 5.9."

Sounds like you got on a wet 5.10a. On a friction-dependent crux, it might be anywhere between 5.10a and impossible. Apr 17, 2017
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.11a
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.11a
I can't possibly think of a way this could be called 5.10a, that roof is fucking hard. You pull a roof on shitty flared hands into a muddy offwidth. Maybe I just sucked but either way, be ready to try really fkin hard at the roof. Otherwise the rest of the climb is amazing, 5 stars!

My partner and I agreed that the roof was the hardest thing we have ever tried anywhere that was called a 5.10. Apr 17, 2017
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
 
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
 
Gear: hands to fists. A # 4 will protect the run to the roof. Roof takes .75/.5 C4's. Really wide above but can get a few pieces right after the roof (offset blue/yellow works really well as does a purple C4).

Has a bolted anchor at the top. A single 60 will get you down to the top of the block but not the ground. Apr 23, 2012