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Gettin Dirty and Bleedin
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Long Wall
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Approach, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Are The Pies Fresh? (to 1st set of anchors) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Big Country T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Block and Tackle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Boom! Boom! Out Go the Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Catharsis Wall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Chinese Checkers V2 5+ |
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Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cruisemaster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Denial S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire and Finesse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gettin Dirty and Bleedin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Green Hornet V0 4 |
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Hidden Treasure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magic School Bus V1 5 |
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Mailbox T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Next Day Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3-4 6A+ X |
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Oxytocin T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Perforator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rainy Day Grunt V0- 4- |
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Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route Less Traveled T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Rubus Fruticosus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sacred Geometry T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Samson Face T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scrabble V0 4 |
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Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Spaceman Spiff V0+ 4+ |
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Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sugar daddy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sunset T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Texas Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunderdome V1 5 |
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Treasures in Heaven T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unlikely Heroes V1 5 |
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Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wellspring T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wooden Nickel V2 5+ |
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Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Tom Kwasny, Chris Carr, Late 90’s or early 00’s |
| Page Views: | 300 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Tom K on Jun 5, 2023 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
I had done some climbing with author John Bronaugh. He was sharing some thoughts on climbing and said, “What could be more fun then hanging out with your friends and getting dirty and bleeding?” So I named this route as a tribute to John. Don’t let the name fool you.
About midway along the wall between Texas Tea and Block and Tackle is a kinda right trending open book dehedral type crack. Burrow up behind some rododendrons to a low ledge, fire up a short toothy section to more friendly rock, jam, layback, and jam to an alcove. Cut left along a thin arching crack and finish on a ledge. From here, several options of varying difficulty are available for another 10 feet to the ridge top. Or call it done and rap from a tree off the ledge.
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