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Routes in Long Wall

Approach, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Country T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Finess S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mailbox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Next Day Air T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A X
Now I'm Something V1 5
Perforator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacred Geometry T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Ralph Craford & Bob Baker, 1977
Page Views: 1,125 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 13, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

An OK climb, but less traveled at least- no lines here. The climb has some variety and also has pretty good gear opportunity, but is not a classic splitter or corner that the gorge is so well known for.
Climb the crack system to a ledge with small trees and gear (belay optional) the continue on a wide crack to the top, or go left and climb a harder crack (5.9) to finish. The alternate finish was by J. Bronaugh & T. Freezel, '89.

Location

From the approach, arriving below the Cruisemaster dihedral, go left out around a blunt corner and come into a left-facing Open-Book corner with some cracks a meter or so apart.

Protection

Rack to a #4 camalot and enough slings to run the pitches together.

Photos

Kevin L
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Kevin L   Boulder, CO
  5.7
Would be a much better climb if it wasn't covered in dirt for the entire first pitch. Great view from top of first pitch and a surprise friend in the rock right below the roof Jun 7, 2017
James Gurian  
 
One of the worst routes I've ever climbed. Without the tree it's probably harder than 5.7. I used the tree. May 8, 2017
Rick Lewis
Indianapolis, IN
 
Rick Lewis   Indianapolis, IN
 
First pitch of this is great, if sandy, Second pitch is worthless, save your time and effort and just rap down from the nicely bolted P1 belay. Nov 7, 2016
EthanC
 
EthanC  
 
There are bolted anchors here, but if you plan to TR this bring some rope to extend them, they are set back about 10 feet from the end of the climb. Oct 19, 2015
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
 
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
 
I did the first pitch as a warm-up while I was waiting to get on Autumn. It was not an enjoyable climb. My follower agreed. Apr 30, 2014
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
Beware the sand! Feb 14, 2007