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Routes in Long Wall

Approach, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a R
Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Country T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire and Finess S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mailbox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Next Day Air T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A X
Now I'm Something V1 5
Perforator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sacred Geometry T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: M. Hackworth, T. Anderson, '84
Page Views: 14,637 total · 100/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Climb up the tan and orange rock (perhaps the name comes from this?) in a corner formed by a very thick left-facing flake. The crux is somewhere around midway to the anchors and is hand-size dependent.
This route and it's neighbor, Rock Wars, are two of the nicest moderate Trad routes in the entire gorge. This climb was originally rated 5.8+ in the 1980's Martin Hackworth books, but was very strenuous and physical at the grade. Most climbers now refer to this as 5.9.

Location

Walk right from the approach trail along the wall until you stand below a massive light-colored roof, a few hundred feet up. There is a large boulder under this, perhaps 15 meters back from the wall. A left-facing obtuse corner in orange/brown rock on the left has a hand-crack (Autumn) and a right-facing obtuse corner is on the right with a thinner crack and lighter rock (Rock Wars).

Protection

Gear to 3.5" with doubles in the hand sizes if you like to sew it up.

Photos

Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Taking two #3 camalots might be worth the effort for some! Mar 17, 2008
jhump
  5.9-
jhump  
  5.9-
Do it like I did it. Only have a few trad leads to your name. Go to the Red in Mid-July. Hike up to Long Wall on a day when you are sure it will rain any minute- 100% humidity. Place all your hand sized gear early in the lead, run out of chalk. Dry the backs of your hands on your pants and gun it through the crux lucky to be alive. Lower as the rain dumps buckets, like it only can in Kentucky. Classic. Jun 27, 2009
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
 
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
 
EXCELLENT CLIMB at this grade!!!

Make sure to wander to the right about 50ft and get Rock Wars 5.10a too!!! Jul 11, 2010
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
@jhump That sounds about as epic as it gets on a one-pitch climb! I can't wait to try it! Aug 17, 2010
Ryan Myers
Tempe, Arizona
 
Ryan Myers   Tempe, Arizona
 
great climb.. ran out of gear.. had to place a #7 BD Hex sideways to protect above the overhanging crack. Aug 17, 2010
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Great climb. I would consider pretty runout without doubles in #2 and/or #3 Oct 17, 2011
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Great Climb! I only top roped it and the offwidth was tough, really fun though! One of the best climbs of my trip. Apr 14, 2012
K Gustafson
  5.9+
K Gustafson  
  5.9+
This seemed pretty 5.9+ to me, although I'm pretty new to trad. I don't know where the minus comes from (maybe the top? it seemed pretty cruisy). I brought triples of 2s and 3s and wish I had more. Bring one 4 if you want to zip up the bottom. I don't even know what the top takes after pulling the roof because I ran out of gear. Mar 19, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
In the old Hackworth books, this was 5.8 and Rock Wars was 5.9.
Perhaps the grading is reflective of people's reluctance to upgrade by too much, or perhaps you just had a hard time on it. It is a pretty physical climb, and perceptions of grades are somewhat intangible. Mar 20, 2015
Gear (C4 sizes): #.4, #.5(2), #1, #2(2), #3. Apr 22, 2016
Kristi Cookie
  5.9
Kristi Cookie  
  5.9
Take all the #2's you have! Jul 20, 2016
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This thing eats as many hand sized cams as you can place (#1-3). If you have doubles 1-3 and a 4 you can climb it very safely, just space out your pro wisely. Oct 2, 2017
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
Ledge below the crux is known to cause injuries. Bring your #3 for the top if you want to avoid slipping and breaking your leg/ankle as a few have here, incuding one of my partners. Belayers - give a very soft catch if your climber falls off above the crux. Jan 23, 2018
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
 
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
 
My experience was pretty similar to jhump’s. This is a great first 5.9 IF you bring enough gear, as the gear is good (I whipped at the crux). I would recommend bringing 3 or 4 reds and golds and definitely two 3s if you don’t feel comfortable running out the gold #2 middle section. My last piece was a #2 I backcleaned after falling and placed as high as I could from the ledge under the crux...this put me into some pretty serious no-fall territory on the top section. Although it eases up substantially once you establish yourself on the upper slab, it’s definitely not trivial climbing when you’re already pumped from the crux and not something I enjoyed soloing... Sep 3, 2018

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