Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 3 pitches
FA: Martin Hackworth, George Robinson, Grant Stephens, 1984
Page Views: 5,483 total · 31/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

Description

You can't miss the Shield of Long Wall where this route is located. As you drive along the gravel road toward the parking area keep your eyes peeled. The climb ascends the left (west) side of the vegetated buttress. Scramble up a grungy gully on the west side to a nice perch.

Second pitch starts as a boulder problem up the short face behind the large pine. No pro here. Once on the vegetated ledge, climb up a short crack to a small pine and make a committing, but solid traverse to the large ledge to the right. Traverse this ledge to anchors.

Belay or not across the wide ledge to the tree ledge where the last pitch starts.

Last pitch: Climb the beautiful exposed slab to the summit, clipping a bolt along the way and aiming for the short crack at the top.

Descent: Walk off to the west or rappel the route via bolted stations. A 60m will barely get you to the ground at the lower station.

Location

Long Wall, on the Shield.

Protection

Mostly smaller cams, up to a #2. Bring slings and TCUs.

Variations

There are a few variations for this route:

1st Pitch:
Too Little, Too Late 5.6. In the middle of the south face of the buttress is a very nice looking right facing flake. Climb this from the ground and at it's terminus traverse left and then up through thick vegetation to the original first belay.

Last pitch:
Zen Master Dude 5.10R/X- From the belay station (chains) traverse a few feet right and boulder up to a high bolt (crux and poorly protected). Then edge to the top through a flake feature to belay bolts on the summit.

Accidentally Kelly Street 5.9+R- Build and intermediate belay halfway through the traverse at the "Nose" of the Shield. Climb up the left side of the blunt arete through very cool moves. The crux is low and poorly protected.

Nautical Twilight 5.8X- Climb up the vague groove on the right side of the "Nose." The crux is right off the tree ledge and fairly well protected. The rest of the climb is more like 5.6X with a little bit of protection right at the top depending on which line you take.

Big Country Direct 5.7X- Climb a plumb line directly under the short crack at the end of the original Big Country finale.

All of these can be top roped after topping out on the original line.

Photos

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