Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 3 pitches
FA: Martin Hackworth, George Robinson, Grant Stephens, 1984
Page Views: 6,497 total · 30/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

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Description Suggest change

You can't miss the Shield of Long Wall where this route is located. As you drive along the gravel road toward the parking area keep your eyes peeled. The climb ascends the left (west) side of the vegetated buttress. Scramble up a grungy gully on the southwest side to a nice perch.

Second pitch starts as a 5.7-ish boulder problem up the short face behind the large pine. There is a bolt to protect the move onto the grassy ledge. Once on the vegetated ledge, climb up a short crack to the top of a short blocky pedestal  and make a committing, but solid traverse to the large ledge to the right. Traverse this ledge to rappel anchors or continue on to the tree ledge.  If you belay from the tree ledge communication can be difficult.

Last pitch: Climb the beautiful exposed slab to the summit, clipping a bolt along the way and aiming for the short crack at the top.

Descent: Walk off to the west or rappel the route via bolted stations. A 60m will barely get you to the ground at the lower station or you can do a third short rappel down the approach gully from the large pine tree.

Location Suggest change

Long Wall, on the Shield.

Protection Suggest change

Mostly smaller cams, up to a #2. Bring slings and TCUs.

Variations Suggest change

There are a few variations for this route:

1st Pitch:
Too Little, Too Late 5.6. In the middle of the south face of the buttress is a very nice looking right facing flake. Climb this from the ground and at it's terminus traverse left and then up through thick vegetation to the original first belay.

Last pitch:
Zen Master Dude 5.10R/X- From the belay station (chains) traverse a few feet right and boulder up to a high bolt (crux and poorly protected). Then edge to the top through a flake feature to belay bolts on the summit.

Accidentally Kelly Street 5.9+R- Build and intermediate belay halfway through the traverse at the "Nose" of the Shield. Climb up the left side of the blunt arete through very cool moves. The crux is low and poorly protected.

Nautical Twilight 5.8X- Climb up the vague groove on the right side of the "Nose." The crux is right off the tree ledge and fairly well protected. The rest of the climb is more like 5.6X with a little bit of protection right at the top depending on which line you take.

Big Country Direct 5.7X- Climb a plumb line directly under the short crack at the end of the original Big Country finale.

All of these can be top roped after topping out on the original line.

Photos

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