5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.9 from 16 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Martin Hackworth, George Robinson, Grant Stephens, 1984|
|Page Views:||6,136 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Chaney on Sep 27, 2006|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, Billy Simek, saxfiend, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo|
You & This Route
Your To-Do List:Add To-Do ·
Your Difficulty Rating:
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
You can't miss the Shield of Long Wall where this route is located. As you drive along the gravel road toward the parking area keep your eyes peeled. The climb ascends the left (west) side of the vegetated buttress. Scramble up a grungy gully on the southwest side to a nice perch.
Second pitch starts as a 5.7-ish boulder problem up the short face behind the large pine. There is a bolt to protect the move onto the grassy ledge. Once on the vegetated ledge, climb up a short crack to the top of a short blocky pedestal and make a committing, but solid traverse to the large ledge to the right. Traverse this ledge to rappel anchors or continue on to the tree ledge. If you belay from the tree ledge communication can be difficult.
Last pitch: Climb the beautiful exposed slab to the summit, clipping a bolt along the way and aiming for the short crack at the top.
Descent: Walk off to the west or rappel the route via bolted stations. A 60m will barely get you to the ground at the lower station or you can do a third short rappel down the approach gully from the large pine tree.
Too Little, Too Late 5.6. In the middle of the south face of the buttress is a very nice looking right facing flake. Climb this from the ground and at it's terminus traverse left and then up through thick vegetation to the original first belay.
Zen Master Dude 5.10R/X- From the belay station (chains) traverse a few feet right and boulder up to a high bolt (crux and poorly protected). Then edge to the top through a flake feature to belay bolts on the summit.
Accidentally Kelly Street 5.9+R- Build and intermediate belay halfway through the traverse at the "Nose" of the Shield. Climb up the left side of the blunt arete through very cool moves. The crux is low and poorly protected.
Nautical Twilight 5.8X- Climb up the vague groove on the right side of the "Nose." The crux is right off the tree ledge and fairly well protected. The rest of the climb is more like 5.6X with a little bit of protection right at the top depending on which line you take.
Big Country Direct 5.7X- Climb a plumb line directly under the short crack at the end of the original Big Country finale.
All of these can be top roped after topping out on the original line.