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Routes in Long Wall
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Approach, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Are the Pies Fresh? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Are The Pies Fresh? (to 1st set of anchors) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Autumn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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B3 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Back Door to Paris S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Big Country T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Block and Tackle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bloodline T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Boom! Boom! Out Go the Lights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Catharsis Wall T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Chinese Checkers V2 5+ |
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Cruise Control T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cruisemaster T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Denial S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fear and Loathing in Nada T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire and Finesse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Game Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gettin Dirty and Bleedin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gift, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gladuator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Green Hornet V0 4 |
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Hidden Treasure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Kazi and Mito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Long Wall Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magic School Bus V1 5 |
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Mailbox T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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NEPA This T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Next Day Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Now I'm Nothing T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3-4 6A+ X |
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Oxytocin T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Perforator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rainy Day Grunt V0- 4- |
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Ralph & Bob's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rock Caddie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock Wars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Route Less Traveled T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Rubus Fruticosus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sacred Geometry T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Samson Face T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scrabble V0 4 |
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Snatch, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Souders Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Spaceman Spiff V0+ 4+ |
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Stand and Deliver S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Suction Lipectomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sugar daddy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sunset T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Texas Tea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunderdome V1 5 |
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Treasures in Heaven T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trinket Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Two Step T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unlikely Heroes V1 5 |
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Vector Trouble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wellspring T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Whip It Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wooden Nickel V2 5+ |
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Yuk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Martin Hackworth, George Robinson, Grant Stephens, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 6,595 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Sep 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
You can't miss the Shield of Long Wall where this route is located. As you drive along the gravel road toward the parking area keep your eyes peeled. The climb ascends the left (west) side of the vegetated buttress. Scramble up a grungy gully on the southwest side to a nice perch.
Second pitch starts as a 5.7-ish boulder problem up the short face behind the large pine. There is a bolt to protect the move onto the grassy ledge. Once on the vegetated ledge, climb up a short crack to the top of a short blocky pedestal and make a committing, but solid traverse to the large ledge to the right. Traverse this ledge to rappel anchors or continue on to the tree ledge. If you belay from the tree ledge communication can be difficult.
Last pitch: Climb the beautiful exposed slab to the summit, clipping a bolt along the way and aiming for the short crack at the top.
Descent: Walk off to the west or rappel the route via bolted stations. A 60m will barely get you to the ground at the lower station or you can do a third short rappel down the approach gully from the large pine tree.
Variations
There are a few variations for this route:
1st Pitch:
Too Little, Too Late 5.6. In the middle of the south face of the buttress is a very nice looking right facing flake. Climb this from the ground and at it's terminus traverse left and then up through thick vegetation to the original first belay.
Last pitch:
Zen Master Dude 5.10R/X- From the belay station (chains) traverse a few feet right and boulder up to a high bolt (crux and poorly protected). Then edge to the top through a flake feature to belay bolts on the summit.
Accidentally Kelly Street 5.9+R- Build and intermediate belay halfway through the traverse at the "Nose" of the Shield. Climb up the left side of the blunt arete through very cool moves. The crux is low and poorly protected.
Nautical Twilight 5.8X- Climb up the vague groove on the right side of the "Nose." The crux is right off the tree ledge and fairly well protected. The rest of the climb is more like 5.6X with a little bit of protection right at the top depending on which line you take.
Big Country Direct 5.7X- Climb a plumb line directly under the short crack at the end of the original Big Country finale.
All of these can be top roped after topping out on the original line.
1st Pitch:
Too Little, Too Late 5.6. In the middle of the south face of the buttress is a very nice looking right facing flake. Climb this from the ground and at it's terminus traverse left and then up through thick vegetation to the original first belay.
Last pitch:
Zen Master Dude 5.10R/X- From the belay station (chains) traverse a few feet right and boulder up to a high bolt (crux and poorly protected). Then edge to the top through a flake feature to belay bolts on the summit.
Accidentally Kelly Street 5.9+R- Build and intermediate belay halfway through the traverse at the "Nose" of the Shield. Climb up the left side of the blunt arete through very cool moves. The crux is low and poorly protected.
Nautical Twilight 5.8X- Climb up the vague groove on the right side of the "Nose." The crux is right off the tree ledge and fairly well protected. The rest of the climb is more like 5.6X with a little bit of protection right at the top depending on which line you take.
Big Country Direct 5.7X- Climb a plumb line directly under the short crack at the end of the original Big Country finale.
All of these can be top roped after topping out on the original line.
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