Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Justin Loyka, Dylan Schweig
Page Views: 538 total · 27/month
Shared By: kck on Apr 9, 2017
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

I submitted this route because I haven't seen it in on MP and couldn't find info about whether a 60m rope would work and the state of the anchors, etc, so I climbed it with a 60m and found it was fine. However, both ends were in the air after getting down. I'd recommend tying knots and using a 70m. The anchors are new glue-ins as of April 2017 and looked bomber, but placed such that you have to do the final chimney moves before you can clip them. There are no intermediate bail bolts or anchors. Belaying from top isn't necessary. A belay from the ground will be pretty hard to get going at first, but fine after that. Helmets are NOT recommended because of the chimney at the top, but wearing a helmet on the ground is HIGHLY recommended. Most holds are solid, but I did dislodge some during my ascent. Since the base is usually pretty crowded with sport climbers, you'd want to make sure you yell very loudly if you do dislodge anything.

The climbing is steep, varied, and burly. There are also at least two sit down ledges and a few no hands rests followed by more strenuous climbing. I'd say the beginning 1/3 is probably the hardest technically. The middle 1/3 is more endurancy with a nice long section of jug hauling but sparse gear, and the final 1/3 is unremarkable except for the nasty chimney.

The top of the chimney was slimy and wet making it more exciting, but it is only about two body lengths. It was tight for me and it flares outwards a bit. The walls of the chimney are pretty smooth and not many edges could be found to make the struggle for upward progress easier. Bomber keyhole slot for a medium or large nut in the chimney just before the anchors protects the exit from the chimney.

Location

Main fruit wall, can't miss it.

Protection

Bolted anchors at the top, 60m rope to lower off (tie knots), but 70m will be extra safe.

Gear obviously subjective, but I found my double rack had quite a few extra cams left (and I had doubled up in certain places). Two #5 would have been nice, one was okay, and made it work. One #6 was needed to protect the traverse out of the cave near the start. No big gear is needed for the chimney. Offset nuts were useful.

Lots of long slings and runners.

Photos

Dustin Stephens
  5.11-
Dustin Stephens  
  5.11-
Great route. The chimney is about 5.7 at hardest so I wouldn't stress much about it much if you have a bit of wide crack technique. Apr 11, 2017
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
 
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
 
This thing could definitely use some more traffic. There was a thick coat of sand on a lot of the large edges I grabbed and some general mank that made it difficult to trust the smears in the first 1/3. I also knocked a VHS-sized block off about 50 ft up. There's at least one other loose jug that's going to get ripped out soon, and probably a good bit more. Definitely don't be hanging out under this route if someone is on it. The belayer is actually safe though since they're tucked back in the cave.

I don't know if it was the wet rock, the extended struggle-bus clinic I had just put on getting there, or the fact that the last good gear was well below my feet, but I'm inclined to call bullshit on that chimney being anywhere near 5.7. Thank god for the pocket nut placement.

Oh, I almost forgot to mention-- this route is badass. Chimney, off-width, dihedral, a 3-foot section of perfect hand crack to taunt you, and lots o jugs. Varied and interesting throughout. Apr 11, 2017
Clay Thomas
  5.10d
Clay Thomas  
  5.10d
One of the best, most varied pitches I've done! The start is an intimidating bomb bay chimney / cave. A thin crux in the first third guards endless, pumpy climbing separated by a few no-hands rests. Get on it!! Aug 28, 2018
Mike Weber
Bensenville, IL
  5.11a/b PG13
Mike Weber   Bensenville, IL
  5.11a/b PG13
The rope drag was horrible after I was lowered to the ground. I imagine that you would have to run out the first 30 feet to avoid it (past the first ceiling). maybe a bit of a sandbag. I will have to climb it again bc this thing chewed me up and spit me out multiple times. expect choss and if possible bring a leaf blower into the first cave with you......... Oct 10, 2018