Avg: 3.8 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Justin Loyka, Dylan Schweig|
|Page Views:||1,572 total · 30/month|
|Shared By:||kck on Apr 9, 2017|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek|
The climbing is steep, varied, and burly. There are also at least two sit down ledges and a few no hands rests followed by more strenuous climbing. I'd say the beginning 1/3 is probably the hardest technically. The middle 1/3 is more endurancy with a nice long section of jug hauling but sparse gear, and the final 1/3 is unremarkable except for the nasty chimney.
The top of the chimney was slimy and wet making it more exciting, but it is only about two body lengths. It was tight for me and it flares outwards a bit. The walls of the chimney are pretty smooth and not many edges could be found to make the struggle for upward progress easier. Bomber keyhole slot for a medium or large nut in the chimney just before the anchors protects the exit from the chimney.
Gear obviously subjective, but I found my double rack had quite a few extra cams left (and I had doubled up in certain places). Two #5 would have been nice, one was okay, and made it work. One #6 was needed to protect the traverse out of the cave near the start. No big gear is needed for the chimney. Offset nuts were useful.
Lots of long slings and runners.