Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
Routes in Fruit Wall
|Banana Hammock S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Banana Split S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Breakfast at Koops S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Disco Strangler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Drosophila S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Fruit Wall Project 2 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fruit by the Foot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Fruit of My Loins S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Fruit of the Loin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Heath Ledger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Hourglass Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|J's on My Feet S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Jew Jew Fruit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Just Peachy Mon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Lichen Lessons S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Mellon Baller S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Mojo Bro Tank Bar Crawl S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Peach Fuzz S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Pineapple Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Poppin Cherries S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Slice of Spice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Strawberry Fields S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Unknown S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Witness the Citrus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Justin Loyka, Dylan Schweig|
|Page Views:||231 total, 31/month|
|Shared By:||kck on Apr 9, 2017|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
DescriptionI submitted this route because I haven't seen it in on MP and couldn't find info about whether a 60m rope would work and the state of the anchors, etc, so I climbed it with a 60m and found it was fine. However, both ends were in the air after getting down. I'd recommend tying knots and using a 70m. The anchors are new glue-ins as of April 2017 and looked bomber, but placed such that you have to do the final chimney moves before you can clip them. There are no intermediate bail bolts or anchors. Belaying from top isn't necessary. A belay from the ground will be pretty hard to get going at first, but fine after that. Helmets are NOT recommended because of the chimney at the top, but wearing a helmet on the ground is HIGHLY recommended. Most holds are solid, but I did dislodge some during my ascent. Since the base is usually pretty crowded with sport climbers, you'd want to make sure you yell very loudly if you do dislodge anything.
The climbing is steep, varied, and burly. There are also at least two sit down ledges and a few no hands rests followed by more strenuous climbing. I'd say the beginning 1/3 is probably the hardest technically. The middle 1/3 is more endurancy with a nice long section of jug hauling but sparse gear, and the final 1/3 is unremarkable except for the nasty chimney.
The top of the chimney was slimy and wet making it more exciting, but it is only about two body lengths. It was tight for me and it flares outwards a bit. The walls of the chimney are pretty smooth and not many edges could be found to make the struggle for upward progress easier. Bomber keyhole slot for a medium or large nut in the chimney just before the anchors protects the exit from the chimney.
ProtectionBolted anchors at the top, 60m rope to lower off (tie knots), but 70m will be extra safe.
Gear obviously subjective, but I found my double rack had quite a few extra cams left (and I had doubled up in certain places). Two #5 would have been nice, one was okay, and made it work. One #6 was needed to protect the traverse out of the cave near the start. No big gear is needed for the chimney. Offset nuts were useful.
Lots of long slings and runners.
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