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Routes in Fortress Wall

After Party, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori - 1977
Page Views: 2,699 total · 22/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 27, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the easy looking crack all the way to the bolted anchors... Though it is 5.6 you might find that it makes you think a little... the crux is roughly in the middle and involves jamming an some precise foot work...

Protects well...

Location

Look for the flat topped boulder in front of a nice corner split by a crack roughly in the center of the cliff... Calypso II climbs this crack...

Protection

Normal rack to wide hand sized cams... bolt anchor...
Fun line with that little balance move in the center. If you want, run it all passive, it takes stoppers well and some hexes up top. Watch for the loose blocks up top. Jul 11, 2012
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
 
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
 
Fun warm up. Awkward placement for the anchors. Oct 28, 2013
Mark Thesing
Central Indiana
Mark Thesing   Central Indiana
It was pretty dirty when I did it. Other than that, there were a lot of good stances to work out the protection. While I used a few cams on it, this route could easily go all the way on passive protection. I found it a little thin at the bottom but opened up to hand size as you got towards the crux. I was able to lace it up real tight from the ground up through the crux. From the top of the crux to the ledge I pretty much ran this section out but the crack still offered plenty of placements that I opted to bypass. Aug 17, 2014

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