Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori - 1977
Page Views: 2,960 total · 23/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 27, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


164 Opinions

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Description

Climb the easy looking crack all the way to the bolted anchors... Though it is 5.6 you might find that it makes you think a little... the crux is roughly in the middle and involves jamming an some precise foot work...

Protects well...

Location

Look for the flat topped boulder in front of a nice corner split by a crack roughly in the center of the cliff... Calypso II climbs this crack...

Protection

Normal rack to wide hand sized cams... bolt anchor...
Fun line with that little balance move in the center. If you want, run it all passive, it takes stoppers well and some hexes up top. Watch for the loose blocks up top. Jul 11, 2012
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
 
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
 
Fun warm up. Awkward placement for the anchors. Oct 28, 2013
Mark Thesing
Central Indiana
Mark Thesing   Central Indiana
It was pretty dirty when I did it. Other than that, there were a lot of good stances to work out the protection. While I used a few cams on it, this route could easily go all the way on passive protection. I found it a little thin at the bottom but opened up to hand size as you got towards the crux. I was able to lace it up real tight from the ground up through the crux. From the top of the crux to the ledge I pretty much ran this section out but the crack still offered plenty of placements that I opted to bypass. Aug 17, 2014
Derrick Keene
Kentucky
 
Derrick Keene   Kentucky
 
Loved this route. Very good jams and fun moves. Face holds were a little dirty, but feet felt solid to me. Oct 30, 2018
Wesley
Morgantown WV
 
Wesley   Morgantown WV
 
I think this route, and its sister to the left, are good ones to introduce new climbers to jamming. both climbs have good face holds. Both climbs have a short section where the face holds thin out and force the climber into the crack.

I found pod filled crack more accepting of nuts than cams.

The rope dragging over the edge of the ledge midway up seems unavoidable due to the anchor placement. Nov 26, 2018