Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: B. Molzon, D. Shori, Nov. 1977
Page Views: 1,944 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 14, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

A good climb with mostly good gear, but a few tricky spots getting around bulges. In 1990 my climbing partner managed to fall with his foot tangled in the rope on lead. After I carried him out over my shoulder, we took a trip to the hospital to treat his concussion and to get stitches in his back where a "chunk" had been torn out. Needless to say, when I later led this route it was with some anticipation and fear, though it turned out to be unwarranted.

To climb this route, scramble up a few moves to reach a bit of a ledge at the base of the main corner. Place good protection and start off on a series of sequences and rests. The key is to go when the going is good and stop to place at the rest stances on jams, stems, and good ledges. Continue up past each ledge encountered to the top of the corner system and then left on the final ledge to the crack on the left side. Belay from a tree on top.

While there are a few ledges with trees (and rap stations with slings), proper use of slings make this good as a single long pitch.

To descend, make a single rap on 2 ropes, or rap the route in reverse, stopping at belays as necessary on the way down. Unless something has changed, I believe it is 2 raps with a 60M but a 50M rope may require 3.

Location

On the far right end of the Fortress wall, perhaps 100 feet from the NE corner of the inside of the amphitheatre, there is a very large corner with a few bulges in it. The cracks and corner are the climb "Horny Bitch."

Protection

A standard rack to 3".

Photos

Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
Someone once characterized this route to me as:

"V0- to rest. V0- to rest. V0- to rest, etc." And that seems to be the case.

When I led this initially I was out of appropriate gear at the belay ledge and had a very shoddy anchor (I was unwilling to belay from rhodo that was rooted at the edge of the ledge). When my second got to the last piece of gear, just under the crux moves at the end of the first pitch, I told him, "Chris (Arvin), after you pull that piece...absolutely, DO NOT FALL!"

His eyes were the size of a #11 Hex, but he didn't fall and I immediately stripped him of the appropriate gear for a solid anchor.

You can also walk left (west) and rappel from the top of Bedtime for Bonzo with one rope. Nov 14, 2006
Eli Sorna
ohio
 
Eli Sorna   ohio
 
Interesting route to say the least... The "boulder problem start" is really a junky dirt boulder I boosted my partner up and he gave me a hand. Not a bad lead my partner and I pulled many shrubs out hopefully stays clean for the next climbers. Near the large belay ledge up 80'~ just under it at the crux is a wedged BD nut with webbing maybe a number 4 so try not to fall there. As the other Beta says we walked to bed time for Bonzo to Rap down. Nov 7, 2016
Aleksander Holleran   duluth
 
This climb is actually really fun, it is like a bunch of stacked V0s but there are a bunch of fun moves in there. The protection is pretty good except for the part above the big ledge. The rock sounds super hollow and there is no protection any way. I accumulated about 30ft of fun out, but it was ok because the climbing at this point is about 5.4. Also i would defiantly recommend going all the way to the top where you can get down in one rap of a tree with a 70m Oct 29, 2017
Chris Oleson
Santiago, Chile
 
Chris Oleson   Santiago, Chile
 
I found this climb less than inspiring, especially given there are many other better options of similar grades close by. It was quite dirty and appeared to not be climbed very much (little chalk on the route). The crux move at the first anchor was fun and a bit challenging. We ran it out with a 70m to the tree above and rapped twice Oct 17, 2018