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Routes in Fortress Wall

American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: George Robinson, Martin Hackworth 1983
Page Views: 1,022 total, 11/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Apr 13, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

There are a few variation, but the most straight forward and pure line is to follow the wide crack in the NE dihedral that starts on a ledge partway up the saddle between the Turret proper and the main wall. Climb the wide crack to the face above. Protects better than it looks from below. The crux is the summit move.

You can start anywhere on the slab or short cracks on the saddle and then step over to the upper face. Popular area for beginners.

Location

Walk left from Snake as if you were heading for Bedtime for Bonzo. Just before the trail passes under an airy roof scramble up to a vegetated ledge under a featured slab.

The most feasible route climbs the wide crack between the saddle and the pinnacle proper.

Rappel from a small tree. You may need to leave slings to pull your rope.

Protection

Middle sized gear. There are some horizontals on the upper face that will take #0.75 - 2 Camalots.

Photos

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billysimek
Boston, MA
billysimek   Boston, MA
Guidebook notes to "Watch out for copperheads in the crack." Aug 24, 2015