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Routes in Fortress Wall
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[Redacted] T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After Party, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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An Ode to the Battlement T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Calypso I (direct variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cussin crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fun-Time For Fonzo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R |
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Hollywood Boulevard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oozing Couth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PLENTY Of Sun T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Route 52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wasp, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Where Lizards Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 4,092 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Oct 12, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Stem into the corner and discover that the apparent hand crack is not deep enough for good solid jams. The good news is that it does take good gear. And the crux is thankfully short.
Once under the roof you have three options:
1) Climb the shallow crack/slab/diherad to the left of the roof.
2) Pull the roof slightly left of center on big holds.
3) Move right of the roof into the juggy flakes with off-balance movement.
After the roof you have a similar choice, but none are good. The standard path is straight up the very friable left facing flake. Be forewarned! In the summer there is usually a wasp nest in the flake just before the top out.
The bolted anchors are directly in line with the left variation. Take care not to rain rocks down on your belayer.
This is a worthy route, it just has a few detracting factors, such as the poor rock quality in topping out and the presence of wasps most of the summer.
Location
There is some sort of fixed anchor, but don't count on anything. Worst case scenario: scramble left over the massive boulder and rappel from American Crack anchors.
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