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Routes in Fortress Wall
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After Party, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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American Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R |
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Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Where Lizards Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft |
| FA: | John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 2,166 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Oct 12, 2006 |
| Admins: | saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike |
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Description
Stem into the corner and discover that the apparent hand crack is not deep enough for good solid jams. The good news is that it does take good gear. And the crux is thankfully short.
Once under the roof you have three options:
1) SECOND BEST OPTION- Place a good nut or cam in the left crack around the roof and sling it long. Climb up, staying left
2) BEST OPTION- Place gear in same place as option one, then climb past the roof slightly left of center on big holds. Solid climbing and fairly well protected.
3) WORST OPTION?- I have not climbed the crack to the right, but it looks harder and less fun than the center route.
After the roof you have a similar choice, but none are good. The standard path is straight up the very friable left facing flake. Be forewarned! In the summer there is usually a wasp nest in the flake just before the top out.
This is a worthy route, it just has a few detracting factors, such as the poor rock quality in topping out and the presence of wasps most of hte summer.
Once under the roof you have three options:
1) SECOND BEST OPTION- Place a good nut or cam in the left crack around the roof and sling it long. Climb up, staying left
2) BEST OPTION- Place gear in same place as option one, then climb past the roof slightly left of center on big holds. Solid climbing and fairly well protected.
3) WORST OPTION?- I have not climbed the crack to the right, but it looks harder and less fun than the center route.
After the roof you have a similar choice, but none are good. The standard path is straight up the very friable left facing flake. Be forewarned! In the summer there is usually a wasp nest in the flake just before the top out.
This is a worthy route, it just has a few detracting factors, such as the poor rock quality in topping out and the presence of wasps most of hte summer.
Location
From American Crack follow the lower ledge right around a buttress and past Route 48 to the next dihedral. It has a roof at 2/3 height.
There is some sort of fixed anchor, but don't count on anything. Worst case scenario: scramble left over the massive boulder and rappel from American Crack anchors.
There is some sort of fixed anchor, but don't count on anything. Worst case scenario: scramble left over the massive boulder and rappel from American Crack anchors.
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