Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1982 |
Page Views: | 4,092 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Oct 12, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Stem into the corner and discover that the apparent hand crack is not deep enough for good solid jams. The good news is that it does take good gear. And the crux is thankfully short.
Once under the roof you have three options:
1) Climb the shallow crack/slab/diherad to the left of the roof.
2) Pull the roof slightly left of center on big holds.
3) Move right of the roof into the juggy flakes with off-balance movement.
After the roof you have a similar choice, but none are good. The standard path is straight up the very friable left facing flake. Be forewarned! In the summer there is usually a wasp nest in the flake just before the top out.
The bolted anchors are directly in line with the left variation. Take care not to rain rocks down on your belayer.
This is a worthy route, it just has a few detracting factors, such as the poor rock quality in topping out and the presence of wasps most of the summer.
Location
There is some sort of fixed anchor, but don't count on anything. Worst case scenario: scramble left over the massive boulder and rappel from American Crack anchors.
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