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Routes in Fortress Wall

After Party, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1982
Page Views: 2,119 total · 15/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 12, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Stem into the corner and discover that the apparent hand crack is not deep enough for good solid jams. The good news is that it does take good gear. And the crux is thankfully short.

Once under the roof you have three options:
1) SECOND BEST OPTION- Place a good nut or cam in the left crack around the roof and sling it long. Climb up, staying left
2) BEST OPTION- Place gear in same place as option one, then climb past the roof slightly left of center on big holds. Solid climbing and fairly well protected.
3) WORST OPTION?- I have not climbed the crack to the right, but it looks harder and less fun than the center route.

After the roof you have a similar choice, but none are good. The standard path is straight up the very friable left facing flake. Be forewarned! In the summer there is usually a wasp nest in the flake just before the top out.

This is a worthy route, it just has a few detracting factors, such as the poor rock quality in topping out and the presence of wasps most of hte summer.

Location

From American Crack follow the lower ledge right around a buttress and past Route 48 to the next dihedral. It has a roof at 2/3 height.

There is some sort of fixed anchor, but don't count on anything. Worst case scenario: scramble left over the massive boulder and rappel from American Crack anchors.

Protection

Standard RRG rack

Photos

Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Crux is definitely the first 20 or so feet all hand and foot jams. Then pulling the roof is sweet and then continuing up to some new high anchors on a huge rock on the party ledge. Apr 14, 2012
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
Exiting the roof to the right is for sure the way to go. Really fun and exposed. Less than obvious placements, so get a nice rest in below the roof so you're not pumped trying to find a place to shove a cam. Also agree about tiny pieces of loose rock raining down from the top out. Helmets for belayers no doubt. Mar 19, 2012
Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
There are now bolted anchors with chains and rings above the regular flake finish. Watch out for loose rocks coming down when people scramble up the ledge to the anchors, and when you pull your rope. May 17, 2011
Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
I went right around the roof, and it was great! Good protection, fun moves, and it adds a secondary crux similar to the main crux (only a bit more exposed). You can continue all the way up the main corner system to the top, and it's no harder than 5.8. This gives a bit more breathing room between you and the wasps. May 17, 2011

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