Avg: 2.8 from 100 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||John Bronaugh, Ron Snider, 1982|
|Page Views:||3,125 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Chaney on Oct 12, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek|
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Once under the roof you have three options:
1) SECOND BEST OPTION- Place a good nut or cam in the left crack around the roof and sling it long. Climb up, staying left
2) BEST OPTION- Place gear in same place as option one, then climb past the roof slightly left of center on big holds. Solid climbing and fairly well protected.
3) WORST OPTION?- I have not climbed the crack to the right, but it looks harder and less fun than the center route.
After the roof you have a similar choice, but none are good. The standard path is straight up the very friable left facing flake. Be forewarned! In the summer there is usually a wasp nest in the flake just before the top out.
This is a worthy route, it just has a few detracting factors, such as the poor rock quality in topping out and the presence of wasps most of the summer.
There is some sort of fixed anchor, but don't count on anything. Worst case scenario: scramble left over the massive boulder and rappel from American Crack anchors.