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Routes in Fortress Wall

American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
Type: Trad, Aid, 70 ft
FA: P1: Ed Pearsol, '77. P2: Greg Smith, '84.
Page Views: 5,356 total, 41/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 14, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A great pitch in its own right and adds height to whatever initial climb you use to approach the starting ledge. A Red River Classic. The standard climb is 5.9+, and a second pitch of aid (reportedly A2/C2) can be done to reach the top of the rock.

Location

Where Lizards Dare is the obvious "flip-flop dihedral" starting from the ledge at just below the mid-height of the cliff, above the climb Snake. THe climb starts as a shallow right-facing corner and as the wall on the left reclines and on the right inclines, the climb crosses a flux point where the dihedral becomes left-facing.

Protection

The climb takes gear from small nuts to hand sized. There is a bolted anchor at the top of the pitch.
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
Any idea what the aid pitch would go at free? Aug 19, 2017
A0hero
Detroit, MI
A0hero   Detroit, MI
Respect the +! Mar 23, 2015
The ole RRG 9+! what a fantastic adventure. After climbing 8+ and 9+ in the Red, most places feel soft. Fantastic sandbagging goin on in the early days. Jungle Beat is the classic multipitch in the Red, next to the Quest. Watch those 8+ grades. They are sure to pack a punch. Jul 10, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
5.9+ is a pretty famous sandbag grade at the gorge. Try 'Jungle Beat' too... another 5.9+. Nov 4, 2010
Harrison Dreves
Denver, Colorado
  5.10b/c A2
Harrison Dreves   Denver, Colorado
  5.10b/c A2
The finger crack (if you can call it that), looks a lot better from the ground.
As a solid 5.9 trad leader, I definitely felt that this pushed my limits. Nov 4, 2010
We did "Blue Runner" 5.9 as pitch one, and walked 25 yards climber left to the WLD belay and ended the climb at the top of that pitch (5.9+ = 5.10c). A technical and memorable combination. Apr 7, 2010
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
Stiff for the grade is an understatement. Felt as hard as The Winter 10+ at the Gunks, which I just did the previous weekend.
A spectacular 10c pitch, very sustained. Apr 7, 2010
max seigal
boulder
 
max seigal   boulder
 
this is an excellent line, however it is very stiff for a 5.9+, in fact it is harder than several 10a's at the red. Maybe it is finger size dependent (mine hardly fit). either way it is definetely worth doing. Apr 27, 2008
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This spectacular climb can easily be combined with Calypso III to make a nice 100 Ft. climb. A 60M rope will get you back to the deck in 1 rap...with 1 Ft. of rope to spare. Oct 17, 2007