Type: Trad, Aid, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: P1: Ed Pearsol, '77. P2: Greg Smith, '84.
Page Views: 8,271 total · 45/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 14, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

Description

A great pitch in its own right and adds height to whatever initial climb you use to approach the starting ledge. A Red River Classic. The standard climb is 5.9+, and a second pitch of aid (reportedly A2/C2) can be done to reach the top of the rock.

Location

Where Lizards Dare is the obvious "flip-flop dihedral" starting from the ledge at just below the mid-height of the cliff, above the climb Calypso III. The climb starts as a shallow right-facing corner and as the wall on the left reclines and on the right inclines, the climb crosses a flux point where the dihedral becomes left-facing.

Protection

The climb takes gear from small nuts to hand sized. There is a bolted anchor at the top of the pitch.

Photos