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Routes in Fortress Wall

American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Molzon & Dick Shori, 1977
Page Views: 2,827 total, 22/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 14, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

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A great route with the sole flaw of not being longer. This route is pretty good and offers good protection.
Negotiate your way up to the shallow slot above the small tree a body length above the ground, then pass the crux getting out of the wide spot and into the crack above. A set of anchors is at the top to belay and rap from.


Walk left in the main amphitheatre about 1/2 way to the end, passing the distinctive American Wall and American Crack. Continue on the trail passing between a large flat boulder and the main cliff and around a small protrudance a short distance. You will immediately pass a left-facing corner (Calypso III) and then see a right leaning crack with a small tree growing on a chockstone near the bottom of it. The crack is briefly a slot, then goes to a more uniform crack and more vertical above. This is the route "Snake, 5.8."


A rack of stoppers and cams to 3"


Ian Flener
Louisville, KY
Ian Flener   Louisville, KY
Its not crucial at all but the top of the wide section takes the #5 you spent all that money on and never use. Sep 11, 2017
Hazel Park, MI
PatrickBecerra   Hazel Park, MI
At the top of this you can go left through the wide crack, or head out right on big jugs and edges. Very fun climb, good for newer 5.8 leaders. Feb 23, 2016
Great route, accurate grade and great protection. Current bolts/rings are conveniently placed just to the left at the top of the route and appear to replace the old (off to the right) bolts, of which only one remains. May 27, 2015
saxfiend: there is a jug right at the top of the chimney section kind of back a bit. but I was able to use it to turn around and literally take a sit down rest in the chimney. look for it next time. May 27, 2015
Approach route winds up at base of this climb. Jun 16, 2014
Michael McClarty  
this was my first ever trad lead. I thought the route was thought provoking and demanding on protection at cruxes as the placement usually occupies a predominant handhold or foothold. trust your feet and there's a rest on every move! Mar 20, 2013
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
One of the nicest lines I got on at Fortress. The transition from the flaring chimney to the crack above was the crux for me. Need to lead it next time. Oct 27, 2008
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
You can build a top rope anchor and extend it directly over the crack. This is the best way to top tope. The bolt anchors are too far off to the right and the rope rubs along a rough edge with loose stuff. Of course with a directional and a top belay it's no problem either.

I concur with Tony, great route! Feb 21, 2007