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Routes in Fortress Wall

American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
Type: Trad, 60 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J. Bronaugh, R. Snider - 1982
Page Views: 1,167 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A hard climb when it is dry and ill-advised when it is wet. In the wetter seasons, it can drip water all day. A challenging route with hand-size dependent difficulty, I find it worthy of the 5.10+ rating, given my smaller paws.

Start up in the left facing corner on smaller gear and do a few stemming moves (5.9?) to get tucked in under the huge roof. Make your way out the roof on good jams and pull the lip (crux) above a large cam and a large Jam. The day I did it I ran into Ron Snyder at the top, who commented that he believed that the route may have gotten harder since the FA, perhaps that a finishing hold over the lip was gone.

Location

This climb is on the upper tier of Fortress Wall and is one of the few routes in the center to access the true top. Start on a route on the right side of the huge amphitheatre, Horny Bitch, Route 52, Cussin' Crack, or Bombs Bursting. Access the ledge above and walk back to the bottom of a large left-facing corner capped by a huge roof.

Protection

A set of stoppers and cams to a #4 camalot.

Photos

Santiago Santacruz
Urbana, IL
  5.10+
Santiago Santacruz   Urbana, IL
  5.10+
Nov2017: Bolted anchor above the lip.
Cleaning strategy: I was lowered from the anchor to clean the route. Avoid the swing by clipping the climber to a gear anchor on the belay ledge BEFORE taking the lowest piece of pro. Another option is to place a very low piece that could be recover before commiting to the route.
Tip: If can't free the roof, aid it with three BD#4 or 2#5 + 1#4. That's what I did. 7 days ago
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
As of 10/07, the anchors for this route are a small tree about 20 Ft. into the woods after reaching the first stance after the roof. Great route, best if your second can clean it, otherwise you have to do it on rappel and it's a real nightmare! Oct 16, 2007