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Routes in Fortress Wall

After Party, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori, 1977
Page Views: 3,946 total · 28/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 14, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A good climb despite being wide up top. Perhaps the best easy introduction to offwidth around, the top will fit and arm and perhaps your head. Many a gumby leader has survived learning to lead on this route even before the advent of what we refer to as 'large cams' these days.
The traditional grade of this climb was a sandbag at 5.2.

Location

Walk left in the main amphitheatre about 1/2 way to the end, passing the distinctive American Wall and American Crack. Continue on the trail passing between a large flat boulder and the main cliff and around a small protrudance a short distance. You will immediately pass a left-facing corner with a wide crack up top. THis is "Calypso III, 5.4". Just to the left further still you will see a right leaning crack with a small tree growing on a chockstone near the bottom of it, "Snake 5.8".

Protection

A rack of cams from small to as large as you have, provided you want gear up top. Most people just run the top out a little,as it is not difficult.

Photos

Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
This route used to be much dirtier. Since bolt anchors were placed and climbers don't have to top out in the sand, the route stays much cleaner. Definitely one of the most popular routes at the wall. If you want to sew it up, bring a rack up to #4 or #4.5 or if you want to do it all passive bring a set of stoppers and a set of hexes up to #11. Long slings help no matter what, as the placements tend to be deep up high. Feb 21, 2007
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.7
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.7
This is where I found out what sandbagging at RRG is all about. Hard to believe it could ever have been considered 5.2. Fun and challenging lead. Oct 27, 2008
sunder
Alsip, Il
  5.6
sunder   Alsip, Il
  5.6
Fun route. The hardest part is the fist 8 feet. Then continue to climb the crack. The top have decide to climb the face or continue on the crack. Click up left and step over to the anchors you don't need to top out to lower off. Starts as small gear and goes up to a #4 and #5 at the top. Aug 30, 2010
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
  5.6
My first Proper trad lead and it was real fun! Good practice placing gear in the crack while on good face holds. Pulling over the bulge at the top was heady since it wouldn't take any gear but fun none the less. Apr 14, 2012
fun route with a semi-boulder V1 start if you go direct. didn't bring any 4's up? it gets pretty runout but as long as you've got toes deep in the crack your not going anywhere and options open up. really fun for a slab and good for a quick warmup. Mar 20, 2013
Donovan Corcoran
Oxford, OH
Donovan Corcoran   Oxford, OH
definitely need doubles of 3 and 4 if you want to sew it up.

When you get to the section where it looks like a bunch of bad slopers on the left face, look around for a few really solid edges and pockets.

Ended up having to bail on an onsight attempt (stupidly only brought my single rack of cams, one 3 and one 4 will not get you up this) because I wasn't comfortable running it out. Luckily a more experienced climber I was with finished it and I was able to work everything out on TR. Will be back for the lead, fun climb Aug 9, 2015
.Alex.
 
.Alex.  
 
If you're feeling confident on 5.5 and love widening cracks like this one you can do what I like to call the Counting-With-Cams Challenge.

All you're allowed to bring are a #1, #2, #3, #4, and a #5, plus draws.

The end little bulge requires commitment, but it isn't too bad. Sep 27, 2016

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