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Routes in Fortress Wall

American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Pearsall, Bevins, 1979
Page Views: 2,744 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on May 31, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Description

This route has a little bit of everything...fingers, off-width, over-hang, face climbing...

Climb through an over-hanging section to a ledge. Climb the thin fingers dihedral until it widens to OW. Work your way up this to a ledge with anchors on a large boulder.

I gave this a "PG" rating because of the start and the boulder below it.

Location

Located left of Calypso II and American Crack/Wall. Route start is "marked" with a large boulder at the base.

Protection

Trad. Rap Anchors at top.
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
5.9
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
5.9
Definitely does not deserve a PG13 rating - you have good gear available the whole way.

If you consider the crux to be the thin fingers/stemmy section in the middle, it protects well with blue/green alien size pieces and/or a small nut. You're quickly rewarded with a bomber hand jam after that section.

Fun climb. Sep 29, 2016
kck
  5.10a/b PG13
kck  
  5.10a/b PG13
Definitely going to hit the ledge if you blow the crux. Definitely harder and more heady than other 5.9s at other areas in the Red. Great line but make sure you stem. :) May 31, 2016
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
 
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
 
Good climb and varied. Stem to send! Nov 16, 2015
Mike Lambino
Jasper, Ga
  5.9
Mike Lambino   Jasper, Ga
  5.9
While standing there looking at the route making excuses to not climb (raining, tired, hungry, etc) my friend and I watched a rat run out of the cubby hole on the crux crack rocket straight up it with no problems. We saw that as a sign and had no choice to do it. Best 5.9 trad lead ever! Great start to finish. Sep 6, 2013