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Routes in Fortress Wall
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After Party, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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An Ode to the Battlement T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Calypso I (direct variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cussin crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fun-Time For Fonzo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R |
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Hollywood Boulevard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oozing Couth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PLENTY Of Sun T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Route 52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Where Lizards Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Tony Bubb and Casey Rhodes, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 1,201 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
A bit of interesting climbing that frankly, my memory of is fading.
What I do recall was pushing myself fairly hard on pretty bad gear- some nuts and tricams half buried in shallow cracks and seams for quite some distance to a ledge with trees from which I was able to bail off on rap and clean my own gear. Casey did not follow the route, she only belayed it. Perhaps the original line will never be certainly found, but I am including it here for reference and maybe someone can find it and repeat it...
There is only a short span of cliff with these shallow "cracks" that give the impression of someone having run their finger shallowly through a soft tub of butter. My notes say "#5 means alive," referring to a 1/2 burried stopper I fell onto on my first try that held, remarkably.
What I do recall was pushing myself fairly hard on pretty bad gear- some nuts and tricams half buried in shallow cracks and seams for quite some distance to a ledge with trees from which I was able to bail off on rap and clean my own gear. Casey did not follow the route, she only belayed it. Perhaps the original line will never be certainly found, but I am including it here for reference and maybe someone can find it and repeat it...
There is only a short span of cliff with these shallow "cracks" that give the impression of someone having run their finger shallowly through a soft tub of butter. My notes say "#5 means alive," referring to a 1/2 burried stopper I fell onto on my first try that held, remarkably.
Location
Somewhere left of Fortress Grunges and right of The Turret, at the far west end of the main amphitheatre of fortress wall, but not quite around to the West facing side. You will come across a lower angled section of wall riddled by shallow seams and runnels. Climb up this wall on edges and slopes with some very dubious nuts in the seams for protection.
Protection
A light rack of nuts and tricams. Most of it will not be good. On the first attempt at the first ascent, a hold shed, resulting in a fall from 10 or 15 feet up. Incredibly enough, a shallow nut, a #5 BD nut, placed between two flakes in a shallow groove and less than 1/2 buried (the cracks are very shallow) held the fall. The route went second try.
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