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Routes in Fortress Wall

American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tony Bubb and Casey Rhodes, 1991
Page Views: 398 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

A bit of interesting climbing that frankly, my memory of is fading.
What I do recall was pushing myself fairly hard on pretty bad gear- some nuts and tricams half buried in shallow cracks and seams for quite some distance to a ledge with trees from which I was able to bail off on rap and clean my own gear. Casey did not follow the route, she only belayed it. Perhaps the original line will never be certainly found, but I am including it here for reference and maybe someone can find it and repeat it...
There is only a short span of cliff with these shallow "cracks" that give the impression of someone having run their finger shallowly through a soft tub of butter. My notes say "#5 means alive," referring to a 1/2 burried stopper I fell onto on my first try that held, remarkably.

Location

Somewhere left of Fortress Grunges and right of The Turret, at the far west end of the main amphitheatre of fortress wall, but not quite around to the West facing side. You will come across a lower angled section of wall riddled by shallow seams and runnels. Climb up this wall on edges and slopes with some very dubious nuts in the seams for protection.

Protection

A light rack of nuts and tricams. Most of it will not be good. On the first attempt at the first ascent, a hold shed, resulting in a fall from 10 or 15 feet up. Incredibly enough, a shallow nut, a #5 BD nut, placed between two flakes in a shallow groove and less than 1/2 buried (the cracks are very shallow) held the fall. The route went second try.

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