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Routes in Fortress Wall

After Party, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fortress Grunges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Horny Bitch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Where Lizards Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: B. Molzon, D. Shori, 1977
Page Views: 1,522 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Start up a wide crack below a left-facing corner, just southeast of the Gulf of Mexico. This start is probably harder than the traditional grade fo 5.3 it was given. Perhaps it is 5.5 or 5.6. Once through the awkward start, pull up into Central America and grab your way into central Mexico, with a good hold somewhere in the Yucatan. Now that your feet are also on solid ground and no longer in the East Pacific, place some slings on chicken heads and puzzle pieces and head for the border. Climb up on easy holds up and left to a small ledge, then up lower angle rock to a large ledge. Webbing on trees was once the mode to belay from here, but since, bolts have been placed for a belay and rap.

To make it challenging, skip the crack and pull directly onto the map into Mexico from SE of Texas. This is height dependent.

Location

This climb is just right of center in the main amphitheatre of Fortress Wall. It is identified by two features: its proximity and shared start with American Crack (an obvious left-facing corner), and its pattern of darker flakes, resembling a map of North America, just out of reach of the ground, which are the features to be climbed.

Protection

A few slings on chicken heads and puzzle pieces. It would be best not to fall...

Photos

Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
The start for this is the same as the start for American Crack so the grade should be the same. THough the rest of the route is most definitely 5.3 Nov 24, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Actually the start is height dependent, and I always grabbed on of the little "islands" and did a jump up onto it. But agreed that 5.3 is a sandbag I've changed the grade on the description and added a qualifier. Nov 25, 2006
Sam Golden
melbourne, FL
 
Sam Golden   melbourne, FL
 
other than the slings mentioned, after the traverse micros will fit in places if examined, also some smaller cams/tricams. May 28, 2012
Kevin Wagner
Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Kevin Wagner   Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Fun, V3 (extremely height dependent) variation of the start from the chalked up two finger pocket up to the plates. Cannot be done on gear but is a fun option if top-roping or confident. The rest protects well with nuts. Mar 10, 2013
Kevin Lubbers
  5.5 R
Kevin Lubbers  
  5.5 R
Start is the same as American Crack, foot or hand traverse left once you hit the iron oxide plates. Sling chickenheads, slot tricams, and wedge a few large offset nuts in there if you got em'. Bring a .75 camalot for the topout. If you have a follower, tell them not to fall on the traverse to avoid a nasty swing. Easy, less than vertical face climbing, but deserving of its "R" rating. Apr 21, 2014
Nick Tripp  
 
Best trad solo I've ever climbed! Jul 16, 2018
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
 
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
 
One of the best route descriptions on the MP. Found it pretty well protect able after that initial traverse. Extend anything you sling so it doesn't pop off... Sep 11, 2018

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