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An Ode to the Battlement
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Fortress Wall
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After Party, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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American Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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American Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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An Ode to the Battlement T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Battlement, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bedtime for Bonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Blue Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bombs Bursting T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonzo's Revenge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Calypso I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Calypso I (direct variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Calypso II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Calypso III T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cussin crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fading Memory T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Fortress Grunges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fun-Time For Fonzo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Get Outta My Way T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R |
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Hollywood Boulevard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Horny Bitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oozing Couth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Party Time T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PLENTY Of Sun T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 48 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Route 52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scratch Your Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Serpent T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Snake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunder Chicken T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Turret, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wasp, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Where Lizards Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Where Lizards Dare (Second Pitch) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2- |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 37.83768, -83.64701 |
| FA: | Probably some old hard man |
| Page Views: | 951 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Thomas Gilmore on Oct 7, 2020 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Did you come to Fortress for The Battlement and Thunder Chicken? Well if you did, don't leave without doing this one.
Climb the first pitch of Bedtime for Bonzo then head about 75 feet to your left and locate a 4 foot hand crack through a roof. If you hit Days of Rage then you've gone too far.
Funky arm bars/chicken wings/fist jams get you to the roof. #3 protects the funk but #4 is probably better. Wiggle up into the roof (#2) and battle over the lip. A #3 or #4 will see you over the lip.
I didn't leave webbing so either top out and rappel BTFB or bring some webbing for a tree.
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