Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: P. Jarrard, C. Snyder
Page Views: 22,073 total · 145/month
Shared By: Mike on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

538 Opinions

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A great pocketed route with lots of chalk up a slightly overhanging face. The technical crux is down low; the enduro crux is up high.


The route is well bolted and has a bolted anchor.


This route is located on the Left Flank wall, and is the left-most route on the crag, about 20' left of a striking 5.12a arete. To reach Left Flank, take 77 East through the Nada Tunnel, then 1 more mile East to the Martin's Fork trailhead on the left. Cross the street and take the Military Wall/Left Flank trailhead, then bear left at the Y.
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
It doesn't get much better than this. Incredibly enjoyable climbing the whole way. Jun 15, 2008
if i recall, as you climb between the 5th and 6th bolts, you'll notice a hanger-less bolt. the space left between them is big (not really big enough to warrant another bolt, though), maybe 15 ft. definitely instruct your belayer on soft catches, as there is potential for swinging into the bulge down low and coming away with a damaged foot.

definitely a spectacular route. a good introduction to solid 10a climbing. Oct 14, 2008
Ross Young
Columbus, OH
Ross Young   Columbus, OH
One of the most fun 10's i have ever climbied. the crux is trying to figure out which pocket to grab when almost ALL of them are chalked up. enjoy! Jan 11, 2011
Red River Gorge
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
The first twenty five feet of this route are so polished that they completely take the fun out of it. Mar 20, 2011
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
Quite good but, for about the same grade, Boltergeist is better and more aesthetic. Oct 17, 2011
Haha boltergeist is an entirely different climb, not to mention in an entirely different region... I am not sure why you are comparing the two, one is vertical pockets while the other one is slab.

Thats like saying "I like this climb but Rock Wars is a much better 10a." Apples to oranges. Oct 20, 2011
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
OK, legit point. I seem to remember reading somewhere To Defy is considered by some as one of the best 10a in the whole of RRG. In my book, it isn't. Perhaps an over reaction on my part. Oct 20, 2011
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
Wish I had lead it but it was still a great climb. Hard and pumpy the whole way up. Its a long and sustained 5.10 Apr 14, 2012
Salt Lake City
JackWeaver   Salt Lake City
I thought this route was great! The none of the holds were polished, but the first foot holds were wet even though it hadn't rained. The water seemed to be seeping from the bottom of the cliff. Very consistent 5.10a/b all the way to the anchors Jul 25, 2013
Oct 13, 2013 While pretty easy if you've got a 5'10' or so APE, this route is totally overrated. The pretty fun climbing up higher doesn't make up for the muddy start and height dependent crux. Easily .10c if you're shorter. Not quite sure what all the fuss is about. Nov 24, 2013
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
I agree, obiss, at the risk of pissing more people off.
I am a shade under 5'5", the climb felt .10a/b to me but that was a while back. Chalk city up high on the route. Yuck. Nov 25, 2013
Ottawa, On
Jfaub   Ottawa, On
Probably one of the better 10a's i've done so far. Cool, technical moves, and a slightly overhanging finish make this a classic. Good intro to the grade. Yes, there is an excessive amount of chalk on the holds, but the moves are good enough that I didn't mind too much. Aug 18, 2014
Eli Staggs
Olympia, WA
Eli Staggs   Olympia, WA
I did not feel like this climb was height dependent at all. 5'4" made its way up smoothly. Jul 2, 2016
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
Overrated. Not a bad climb though. Apr 18, 2017
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
The bottom of this thing is getting polished like crazy. Loses a star because of it. Sep 12, 2018