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Routes in Mariba Fork

Exodus, The T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Laceration T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Reach for the Beach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Synergy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Elevation: 1,092 ft
GPS: 37.9, -83.572 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,036 total · 41/month
Shared By: Holden Marsh on Oct 18, 2012
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike
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This crag is a considerable distance from a the rest of the climbing in the Red River Gorge, with a 30 minute drive, followed by a 15-30 minute hike. Hence, it is very secluded, and it's rare to see other people climbing at this location at the same time. There are only trad routes located here, but the quality of the routes and the beauty and serenity of the area make the lengthy approach worth it.

Getting There

"From the parking lot of the Junior Williamson Rest Area in Slade, turn left (north) on KY 11, drive 0.1 miles under the Mountain Parkway overpass to a "T" intersection with KY 15. Turn left (east) and continue for 1.5 miles, then turn right (north) on KY 77. This highway is also known as "Nada Tunnel Road", and you may see a street sign so designated at this intersection. Drive 4.4 miles through the tiny town of Nada, through the tunnel, and over the steel bridge (stay right after you cross the steel bridge) to the intersection with KY 715. Stay to the left on KY 77 (KY 715 curves to the right) towards Fortress Wall and Phantasia. Stay on KY 77 for about 8 miles until you see Flecher Ridge road on your right. The road angles sharply back to the right. Turn right on this road and drive for about 1.3 miles. Look for Forest Service signs on your left. Shortly after you see the Forest Service signs on your left, look for a field directly after the wooded section ends. Park on your left and hike along the field keeping the wooded section on your left. You will be following an old barbed wire fence. After about 10 minutes the field will meet up with a wooded area. Continue on a trail through the woods, angling slightly left, until you reach the cliff's edge. Head left and look for an obvious dark and narrow corridor heading down to the base of the cliff. Continue down through the corridor and hike down to a creek. Cross the creek and head uphill to the base of the wall which the routes listed in this guide are on. You should come out of the rhodos somewhere near Laceration."

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mariba Fork

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
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David Tennant
Denver, CO
David Tennant   Denver, CO
When the trail meets the wall, Laceration will be right a few hundred feet. There are definitely a good handful of routes here, at least one other that looked similar to Lacerations grade, but was pretty soaked even though it hadn't rained in a good while. Also as of April 2014 on the trail just after the massive field and before the keyhole, there was a good amount of trees down across the trail, but as long as you keep heading northeast where the trail is pointed, you should be able to bush wack around it May 21, 2014

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