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Routes in Military Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Another Doug Reed Route S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beene Material T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BeeneStalker (closed) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blade Runner (closed) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Danita Dolores S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decay's Way T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Forearm Follies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forearm Follies (2nd anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fuzzy Undercling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G.I. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Government Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gung Ho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
In the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jac Mac (closed) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jungle Beat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Turret S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legend, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mercy Miss Percy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minimum Creep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonbeam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mule S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nagypapa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Nicorette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not Worth It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nothing for Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parting Gift S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Feat Boulder Problem V1 5
Possum Lips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reliquary, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stay Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subatomic Fingerlock (closed) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Things That Go Bump In the Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Thirsting Skull (closed) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tissue Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: P.Jarrard, P Olenick, R. Turan, 1990
Page Views: 8,560 total, 63/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A classic climb with a classic finish- usually a long fall. I imagine that this climb has seen more staring-the-bolt-in-the-face swearing than any other route in the area.
Just left of Fuzzy Undercling, a line of large pockets rises up and right from the ground, becoming smaller and smaller towards the anchors. Waste no time and no rests getting there for success.

Location

From the left branch of the approach trail you first encounter the "triplet" climbs,Sunshine, Moonbeam, and Into the Light. While these are at your right shoulder you can look further on to the routes on a massive overhanging buttress. These are (from right to left) Fuzzy Undercling, Tissue Tiger, Gung Ho, and Reliquary. To the right of these there is a huge, wide inset, which just within and on the left side of which there is a bolted slab, Possum Lips.

Protection

5 stainless steel glue-in bolts to a bolted anchor.
ottice webb
Stanton KY
ottice webb   Stanton KY
New SS glueins 2/7/2016 Feb 7, 2016
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
I found the no hands rest as well. A solid knee bar that not only allowed me to go no hands, but got me halfway through the crux without even having to pull. Felt rather soft with this beta, but very fun! Dec 2, 2013
Alex Lahr  
 
If you're tall, undercling/side pull the clipping jug before the crux, match the pockets, then hod on for dear life and you've bagged it. Just don't lose your head going to the anchors. Mar 18, 2013
BrianWS
  5.12a/b
BrianWS  
  5.12a/b
So much fun in one route! There are some awesome features on this rock. Jan 31, 2013
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Dope Route!!! Dec 19, 2012
CharlesZ
Greenfield, WI
CharlesZ   Greenfield, WI
Yeah, chalk up and go for it. :) Apr 8, 2012
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
this climbs got my number...a bunch of whips on the crux and I still couldn't get it! Any beta for going off those 2 pockets and eventually to the flake at the last bolt? Jul 11, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
no no-hands rests.

where jeans for crux move. Nov 23, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
This felt like the hardest route on the wall, the crux of this one is solid. Clipping the last bolt shouldn't be a problem as there are huge jugs just above it, not a good one to try to clip early.

Maybe Kristoffer is referring to the protruding rock 1/2 way up and slightly right. It might be possible to sit on it. I certainly didn't attempt to get a no-hands there though. Oct 28, 2009
JJNS  
Fuzzy undercling has the no hands rest. Oct 20, 2009
JamesW  
Sure you're thinking of the right route...I don't remember any no hands on this route??? Apr 9, 2009
Kris S
Ocean Beach, SF
Kris S   Ocean Beach, SF
Love the no-hands rest in the cup holder!!! Wear pants :) Great route. Mar 15, 2009