Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: S. Cater, P. Jarrard, 1991
Page Views: 4,856 total · 32/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


332 Opinions

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Description

This is the left-most of three closely spaced routes on the short steep section of rock. A distinct steep crux down low on dark edges and pockets is the business while the upper section lets off on the difficulty. Still, the climb is pumpy enough to warm you up for harder climbs.

Location

From the main approach Trail go left to a short area of the wall, steep and pocketed. There are presently 3 sport routes there. From right to left these are: Into the Light (10c), Sunshine (9+) and Moonbeam (9).

Protection

5 bolts to a bolt and chain anchor.

Photos

randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
about 3/4 up the route there is a hold unlike any i have seen. it looks like a short section of say five inch diameter pipe. it's made entirely of bullet hard patina/iron oxide, and it just rests in the back of this large ledge/lip. you can stick your whole hand through it and grab it like an undercling or sidepull. amazing!!! Nov 23, 2009
JJNS  
Don't grab it to hard! Agreed, it's amazing. I always try to describe this hold to people and fail miserably. Oct 15, 2010
It's a blood pressure cuff. Get up there and stick your arm through it to see if you are sufficiently warmed up.

It's also a touch loose, so be gentle. May 10, 2011
Grant Dunstan
Caledon East, Ontario
Grant Dunstan   Caledon East, Ontario
This route could use some hardware upgrade. The second last or last bolt is a spinner and rusty, albeit I watched someone fall on it and it held! Jun 18, 2015
Jordan M.  
 
Red River Gorge pump fest. Great holds on great rock. Usually a popular area. First person video: youtu.be/5uWkelFVX8c Jan 14, 2019