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Routes in Military Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Another Doug Reed Route S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beene Material T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BeeneStalker (closed) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blade Runner (closed) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Danita Dolores S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decay's Way T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Forearm Follies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forearm Follies (2nd anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fuzzy Undercling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G.I. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Government Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gung Ho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
In the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jac Mac (closed) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jungle Beat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Turret S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legend, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mercy Miss Percy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minimum Creep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonbeam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mule S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nagypapa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Nicorette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not Worth It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nothing for Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parting Gift S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Feat Boulder Problem V1 5
Possum Lips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reliquary, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stay Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subatomic Fingerlock (closed) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Things That Go Bump In the Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Thirsting Skull (closed) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tissue Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. Seibert, M. Hackworth, 12/'74
Page Views: 1,789 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 9, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up the initial wide crack to reach some gear perhaps 6 meters above the ground. Place something and head up the pleasant and reasonably well protected corner to a ledge, belaying from a tree on it.
Scramble up lower angle rock to the top and belay from a second tree.
To descend, rap on 2 ropes to the ground, or to the tree on a ledge and then to the ground on a second rap.

Location

Continue far right on the Military Wall, passing the beautiful flat face of Pink Feat and stop near the NE most point, nearly in view of the road. A left-facing corner system starts from the ground with a steep wide crack and becomes easier as you go.

Protection

A standard rack to 4 with some longer slings. A steep wide section is encountered prior to reaching the first piece of gear, but nobody seems to get hurt on it. I have not climbed this since the advent of 'large cams,but perhaps a very large cam would help?

Photos

Philip Lutz
Bishop, California
Philip Lutz   Bishop, California
this route is like 80-90 feet and finishes on a set of bolted anchors right before the topout

some flakes are pretty hollow and a number six C4 is great to bump up the start and then i slung one of the chockstones and carried the number six

run it out and go light on gear...you need at least one number 4 C4 and some hand/fist sized pieces Aug 22, 2011
John Ely   DC
A six camalot on the first section makes this pg, not pg13 in my opinion, but it is a physical, tiring 5.7. We rapped easily with a 70 meter line. Nov 19, 2009
wojtassi
Roselle, IL
 
wojtassi   Roselle, IL
 
You can do it in one pitch with 60 m. rope as long as you extend your placements(a lot of spots that can create a rope drag). You can also repel from bolted anchors with 60 m. rope. The first section can be protected with #6 Camelot. Very fun lead. Nice view from the top. Jun 1, 2009