Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. Seibert, M. Hackworth, 12/'74
Page Views: 2,084 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 9, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the initial wide crack to reach some gear perhaps 6 meters above the ground. Place something and head up the pleasant and reasonably well protected corner to a ledge, belaying from a tree on it.
Scramble up lower angle rock to the top and belay from a second tree.
To descend, rap on 2 ropes to the ground, or to the tree on a ledge and then to the ground on a second rap.

Location

Continue far right on the Military Wall, passing the beautiful flat face of Pink Feat and stop near the NE most point, nearly in view of the road. A left-facing corner system starts from the ground with a steep wide crack and becomes easier as you go.

Protection

A standard rack to 4 with some longer slings. A steep wide section is encountered prior to reaching the first piece of gear, but nobody seems to get hurt on it. I have not climbed this since the advent of 'large cams,but perhaps a very large cam would help?

Photos

wojtassi
Roselle, IL
 
wojtassi   Roselle, IL
 
You can do it in one pitch with 60 m. rope as long as you extend your placements(a lot of spots that can create a rope drag). You can also repel from bolted anchors with 60 m. rope. The first section can be protected with #6 Camelot. Very fun lead. Nice view from the top. Jun 1, 2009
John Ely   DC
A six camalot on the first section makes this pg, not pg13 in my opinion, but it is a physical, tiring 5.7. We rapped easily with a 70 meter line. Nov 19, 2009
Philip Lutz
Bishop, California
Philip Lutz   Bishop, California
this route is like 80-90 feet and finishes on a set of bolted anchors right before the topout

some flakes are pretty hollow and a number six C4 is great to bump up the start and then i slung one of the chockstones and carried the number six

run it out and go light on gear...you need at least one number 4 C4 and some hand/fist sized pieces Aug 22, 2011
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Excellent climb. A bit tough in the grade. You will definitely want a #6 for the start unless you are very solid in the grade. There is no place that a #5 will fit. May 17, 2018
Tommy Penick
Truckee, California
Tommy Penick   Truckee, California
No need for two pitches. The tree that is mentioned on the ledge no longer exists. As mentioned in other comments, the #6 makes the first part well protected. Sep 16, 2018