Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 60 ft|
|FA:||P. Jarrard, M. WIlliams, 1990|
|Page Views:||2,472 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 27, 2006|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek|
A climb with a super steep start and many great pockets, and many bad ones. I recall someone saying once that "the holds are all 5.11 holds, you just have to figure out which ones to use, then use them all before you pump out." That seems to be pretty accurate to me. I was able to do the moves way back when, but never redpointed it. Yet I have seen it done by headlamp at night...
Pull up onto the route above the gap at the start and get the steepest section out of the way early- start climbing and clipping, being sure to get the right pockets for the best holds. The crux is near the top when you are good and pumped, just before reaching the huge holds at the arete.