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Routes in Military Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Another Doug Reed Route S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beene Material T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BeeneStalker (closed) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blade Runner (closed) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Danita Dolores S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decay's Way T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Forearm Follies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forearm Follies (2nd anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fuzzy Undercling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G.I. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Government Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gung Ho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
In the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jac Mac (closed) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jungle Beat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Turret S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legend, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mercy Miss Percy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minimum Creep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonbeam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mule S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nagypapa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Nicorette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not Worth It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nothing for Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parting Gift S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Feat Boulder Problem V1 5
Possum Lips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reliquary, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stay Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subatomic Fingerlock (closed) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Things That Go Bump In the Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Thirsting Skull (closed) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tissue Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,439 total, 35/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

If you're the sort of climber who believes everything at the Red is soft, take a run on this guy! This classic slab is completely out of character with the typical Red jug haul, with thin edges and invisible feet on a less than vertical wall. The rock is stellar, and the movement is cerebral and sustained with three or four significant cruxes that don't let up till the very end.

The fun begins with literally the hardest move on the route--a long slap to the obvious horn. Shorter folks and those afraid of flying will have a difficult time with this move. Snake between large edges to a good rest before the redpoint crux: a tenuous barn-door lieback past the 5' vertical rail. Footholds re-appear once you reach a well-earned shake on the arete. One more reachy move gains a horizontal break and a good rest.

Easier moves lead into the right-leaning dihedral, and a few more off-balance moves to exit up & right to the final rest. A wicked little technical boulder problem guards the anchor. Long reaches & good balance are the key to the good jugs at the chains.

Location

On the far right end of the Military Wall, just left of an arete a 6"-wide flake crack, beginning up a heavily-chalked, 10' tall, 3" deep, left-facing dihedral.

Protection

~8 bolts, 2 BA.
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12d
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12d
After trying most of the classic routes in the red up to 13a, this one takes the cake for my favorite rock climb in the gorge and maybe of all time. Stunning rock with perfect beautiful technical climbing the whole way. I dont think climbing gets any better than this. Save it for good temps it's much better with good friction. Dec 18, 2015