Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,002 total · 35/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

If you're the sort of climber who believes everything at the Red is soft, take a run on this guy! This classic slab is completely out of character with the typical Red jug haul, with thin edges and invisible feet on a less than vertical wall. The rock is stellar, and the movement is cerebral and sustained with three or four significant cruxes that don't let up till the very end.

The fun begins with literally the hardest move on the route--a long slap to the obvious horn. Shorter folks and those afraid of flying will have a difficult time with this move. Snake between large edges to a good rest before the redpoint crux: a tenuous barn-door lieback past the 5' vertical rail. Footholds re-appear once you reach a well-earned shake on the arete. One more reachy move gains a horizontal break and a good rest.

Easier moves lead into the right-leaning dihedral, and a few more off-balance moves to exit up & right to the final rest. A wicked little technical boulder problem guards the anchor. Long reaches & good balance are the key to the good jugs at the chains.

Location

On the far right end of the Military Wall, just left of an arete a 6"-wide flake crack, beginning up a heavily-chalked, 10' tall, 3" deep, left-facing dihedral.

Protection

~8 bolts, 2 BA.

Photos

Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12d
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12d
After trying most of the classic routes in the red up to 13a, this one takes the cake for my favorite rock climb in the gorge and maybe of all time. Stunning rock with perfect beautiful technical climbing the whole way. I dont think climbing gets any better than this. Save it for good temps it's much better with good friction. Dec 18, 2015