Avg: 3.5 from 13 votes
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft|
|Page Views:||3,489 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2009|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
DescriptionIf you're the sort of climber who believes everything at the Red is soft, take a run on this guy! This classic slab is completely out of character with the typical Red jug haul, with thin edges and invisible feet on a less than vertical wall. The rock is stellar, and the movement is cerebral and sustained with three or four significant cruxes that don't let up till the very end.
The fun begins with literally the hardest move on the route--a long slap to the obvious horn. Shorter folks and those afraid of flying will have a difficult time with this move. Snake between large edges to a good rest before the redpoint crux: a tenuous barn-door lieback past the 5' vertical rail. Footholds re-appear once you reach a well-earned shake on the arete. One more reachy move gains a horizontal break and a good rest.
Easier moves lead into the right-leaning dihedral, and a few more off-balance moves to exit up & right to the final rest. A wicked little technical boulder problem guards the anchor. Long reaches & good balance are the key to the good jugs at the chains.