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Routes in Military Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Another Doug Reed Route S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beene Material T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BeeneStalker (closed) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blade Runner (closed) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Danita Dolores S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decay's Way T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Forearm Follies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forearm Follies (2nd anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fuzzy Undercling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G.I. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Government Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gung Ho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
In the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jac Mac (closed) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jungle Beat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Turret S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legend, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mercy Miss Percy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minimum Creep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonbeam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mule S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nagypapa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Nicorette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not Worth It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nothing for Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parting Gift S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Feat Boulder Problem V1 5
Possum Lips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reliquary, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stay Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subatomic Fingerlock (closed) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Things That Go Bump In the Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Thirsting Skull (closed) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tissue Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: H. Loeffler, D. Whelan, 1991
Page Views: 1,444 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

The base of this route has changed over it's history, prompting some differences in opinion about the difficulty of the route, which has waxed and waned over time.
In 1991 when the route was bolted, a large tree stood not far from its base. One could stand there, reach up to a hold and hop to a second hand and pull up onto the route. This was the crux and was about middle 5.10. Shorter and less powerful climbers complained about the sandbag.

In perhaps 1994 a huge windstorm and some tornadoes came though the gorge in autumn, blowing many trees across roads and trails. The tree at the base of D.D. was just one more casualty, but it made the route easier...
The root system tore out and brought soil and rocks up, and placed a starting shelf at the base of the climb. One could simply step off of these and onto the climb, making any sort of hop-start seem contrived and unnecessary. Some people complained that the route was over graded.

Over time, earth settled, the tree collapsed, rocks were moved and low and behold, the start to this climb has returned, perhaps to a lower point than before? And now I note the latest guidebook mentions a "desperate start" again.

So whatever the condition, do what is necessary to pull up onto the wall over the bulging start, and climb easier, lower-angle rock to the top of the arete out right and rap from fixed anchors.

Location

Follow the approach trail up to the fork in it and take the right side, up past the Nicorette arete. To the right of this a small prow sits just right of the huge right facing corner with an offwidth. The bolted route up this prow is D.D.

Protection

5 clips to a 2-bolt anchor.
Mike Lambino
Jasper, Ga
  5.10
Mike Lambino   Jasper, Ga
  5.10
The starting pocket for the right hand has an incut that will hyper extend your fingers if not careful. Fun climb. Sep 6, 2013
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
  5.10a
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
  5.10a
Fun Route. Face climbing to the arete. Ride the arete and make a few clips, then easy slabby climbing as you stay around the right side of the arete and up to the chains. May 3, 2011
kjdetlor
Colorado Springs, CO
kjdetlor   Colorado Springs, CO
i'm talking about the overhung off-width, it starts out as a five inch crack for the first 15 feet, then goes to really wide pod almost squeeze chimney sized, then goes back down to a four inch crack the rest of the way, it can totally share the same anchors as danita, there is no way in hell its 5.9, i've been on easier 5.11 offwidths at indian creek UT. Oct 16, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
The hand and fist crack to the right is Blade Runner (5.7) so I assume you are talking about the left side, a sand-bagged 5.9 called 'Not Worth It.' Oct 15, 2007
kjdetlor
Colorado Springs, CO
kjdetlor   Colorado Springs, CO
toproped the offwidth next to this route, does anybody know what it goes at or what it is called? it felt pretty freaking hard for me, i was thinking like 5.11? anybody know? Oct 14, 2007