Avg: 3.6 from 21 votes
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft|
|FA:||Porter Jarrard, Tim Powers, 1991|
|Page Views:||2,077 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Nov 8, 2009|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
DescriptionFor some reason, this excellent route sits neglected in the middle of the most crowded 5.12 wall in the Southeast. Perhaps the guidebook's 3-star quality rating is to blame. Don't be fooled, this is just as good as the other routes on this wall, offering excellent stone, unbelievable jugs, and nearly 90 feet of engaging climbing. If this climb has a downside, perhaps its the brief nature of the crux section. This route is probably no harder than 5.11- to the obvious orange roof at 60 feet, followed by a relatively short, pumpy sprint up the slopey headwall. If there were an intermediate anchor at 50 feet, this would surely be one of the most popular 5.11s at the Red.
Begin with cerebral moves up the overhanging dihedral. Exit the left-facing dihedral, then enter a less prominent right-facing dihedral, and a possible sit-down rest. More ridiculous fins & plates lead up to a great rest below the orange roof. A long reach leads over the roof to a steep wall of rounded scoops. Sprint through the scoops to a tricky mantle onto the shallow ledge. Mount the final panel, with a core-intensive high-step, and follow the leaning groove to good jugs below the retro-bolted chain anchor.