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Routes in Military Wall
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All Things Considered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Another Doug Reed Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beene Material T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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BeeneStalker (closed) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Blade Runner (closed) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Daisychain S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Danita Dolores S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Decay's Way T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Etrier S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Forearm Follies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Forearm Follies (2nd anchor) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Fuzzy Undercling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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G.I. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Government Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Green Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Gung Ho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Henry Kissinger’s Glasses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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In the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jac Mac (closed) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jungle Beat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Left Turret S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Legend, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Mental Health T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mercy Miss Percy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Minimum Creep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Moonbeam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mule S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nagypapa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Nicoderm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nicorette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Not Worth It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nothing for Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Parting Gift S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pink Feat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Pink Feat Boulder Problem V1 5 |
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Possum Lips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Reliquary S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Special impetus S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stacy's Farewell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stay Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Subatomic Fingerlock (closed) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Super Slab S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Things That Go Bump In the Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Thirsting Skull (closed) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tissue Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Porter Jarrard, Tim Powers, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 4,510 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 8, 2009 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
For some reason, this excellent route sits neglected in the middle of the most crowded 5.12 wall in the Southeast. Perhaps the guidebook's 3-star quality rating is to blame. Don't be fooled, this is just as good as the other routes on this wall, offering excellent stone, unbelievable jugs, and nearly 90 feet of engaging climbing. If this climb has a downside, perhaps its the brief nature of the crux section. This route is probably no harder than 5.11- to the obvious orange roof at 60 feet, followed by a relatively short, pumpy sprint up the slopey headwall. If there were an intermediate anchor at 50 feet, this would surely be one of the most popular 5.11s at the Red.
Begin with cerebral moves up the overhanging dihedral. Exit the left-facing dihedral, then enter a less prominent right-facing dihedral, and a possible sit-down rest. More ridiculous fins & plates lead up to a great rest below the orange roof. A long reach leads over the roof to a steep wall of rounded scoops. Sprint through the scoops to a tricky mantle onto the shallow ledge. Mount the final panel, with a core-intensive high-step, and follow the leaning groove to good jugs below the retro-bolted chain anchor.
Begin with cerebral moves up the overhanging dihedral. Exit the left-facing dihedral, then enter a less prominent right-facing dihedral, and a possible sit-down rest. More ridiculous fins & plates lead up to a great rest below the orange roof. A long reach leads over the roof to a steep wall of rounded scoops. Sprint through the scoops to a tricky mantle onto the shallow ledge. Mount the final panel, with a core-intensive high-step, and follow the leaning groove to good jugs below the retro-bolted chain anchor.
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