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Routes in Military Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Another Doug Reed Route S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beene Material T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BeeneStalker (closed) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blade Runner (closed) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Danita Dolores S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decay's Way T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Forearm Follies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forearm Follies (2nd anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fuzzy Undercling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G.I. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Government Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gung Ho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
In the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jac Mac (closed) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jungle Beat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Turret S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legend, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mercy Miss Percy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minimum Creep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonbeam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mule S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nagypapa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Nicorette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not Worth It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nothing for Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parting Gift S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Feat Boulder Problem V1 5
Possum Lips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reliquary, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stay Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subatomic Fingerlock (closed) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Things That Go Bump In the Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Thirsting Skull (closed) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tissue Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: P. Jarrard, M. Williams, 1990
Page Views: 5,767 total, 43/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This is the second bolted line left of the Fuzzy Undercling, a line of mostly good pockets rises up and right from the ground to provide a warm up or a pump, depending on your fitness level and skill. A rest can be had before going up to a flatter, less pocketed top section, where a shallow crack with good edges provides the real crux of the route. Crimp and barn-door on the edge of the crack using your footwork to reach the anchor above.

Location

From the left branch of the approach trail you first encounter the "triplet" climbs,Sunshine, Moonbeam, and Into the Light. While these are at your right shoulder you can look further on to the routes on a massive overhanging buttress. These are (from right to left) Fuzzy Undercling, Tissue Tiger, Gung Ho, and Reliquary. To the right of these there is a huge, wide inset, which just within and on the left side of which, there is a bolted slab, Possum Lips.

Protection

5 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Photos

S. Neoh  
Great story, way better than mine.
Rainy day back in '96, after a warm-up and quick dispatch of Fuzzy, we found ourselves 7th and 8th in line, behind six dudes who were all intent on redpointing their first 5.12 (rated 12a back then). Failure upon failure ensued. We gave up and got on Tissue Tiger instead and quickly learned why there had not been a person on it the past 2 hours. TT is hard! No send. Feb 1, 2011
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
 
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
 
I remember the day I tried this route well. There is a great photo of this climb in John Bronaugh’s second edition guidebook. This was one of the top routes I wanted to do on that particular roadtrip.

I belayed my partner, and then watched two other people climb the route over about two hours. Everyone was getting to the crux, falling, and then working out the crux. We all chatted and exchanged bata. The next try would be a redpoint attempt for all. The entire time they were climbing I was watching their beta and planning how I would do the route. I had never done a 5.12 on my first try before.

Without saying anything to my belayer, I pulled onto the wall. I climbed through the lower sections multitude of pockets swiftly, using the path employed by the other climbers. Suddenly I was at the crux. I clipped the crux bolt low, from an undercling pocket by my feet, rather than from higher on taxing crimps like the others had done.

At that moment everyone at the base of the cliff took notice and went silent. I launched into the crux and I remember cheering from below, but they sounded very far away. Barely hanging in there on the sidepulls and back and forth foot switches, I eyed the finishing ledge. It seemed really far away. My gas tank was empty and my forearms were at red line. In a last ditch effort, I shifted my hips and launched for it with all I had. I brushed the juggy ledge with my fingertips, no other appendages on the wall. I hung there in space for what seemed like forever, then I was suddenly speeding towards earth. I thought “This should not be happening!” The next thing I knew I was on the end of the rope a long ways down. I was told later that I was wind milling my arms and screamed, but I do not remember that. My belayer said he had given me an extra loop of slack because he was sure I would stick it. All went on to redpoint next try I believe. Feb 1, 2011