Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Larry Day, 1970's
Page Views: 928 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Rated 5.3 in the Old Hackworth guide, I did this and thought it was the worst sandbag I have ever been on. While the grade has been adjusted, the climb is still hard for 5.7 and is not always well protected.

Climb up a crack system to the left of the Sunshine/Moonbeam climbs and up over a dirty top-out to belay at the base of a tree. The top of this climb tends to collect debris and can be slick, so pay attention.

Location

The main approach Trail comes up to a point in the wall and forks. If you take the left fork you quickly reach Into The Light, Sunshine, and Moonbeam (short steep pocket routes) on your right in short order. Just after passing the 3 of these there is a seldom traveled crack system, "Decay's Way."

Protection

Whatever of a standard rack you can fiddle in.

Photos

J tot
Tempe, AZ
  5.8+
J tot   Tempe, AZ
  5.8+
5.3!?
The start is a solid 5.9 move. May 16, 2010
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
A 6" cam can be walked up most of the climb, while you fiddle in sometimes marginal gear along the way. Nov 14, 2012
Eugenel Espiritu
PA
  5.7
Eugenel Espiritu   PA
  5.7
#2 & #3 cam, #2 big bro Oct 23, 2016