Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Larry Day, Tom Seibert - 1979
Page Views: 6,135 total · 37/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best trad routes in the Gorge, hands down. Also an interesting adventure and a sandbag. Rated traditionally at 5.9+, one is left to wonder, "Plus what?" I say, plus one.

P1, 100'+, 5.9: Climb up the initial corner on good jams, mostly hands-sized and up to the roof. Figure out how to get out to the end of the roof to the belay, which is awesome and not hard at all. Do not let the appearance of the roof from below intimidate you. Belay on large gear (in my case a #4 camalot and a large hex) before heading up and out over the lip of the roof.
P2, 100', 5.10: Place a piece of gear at or above the lip and Climb up over it, being conscious of where your last piece of good gear is- you can ill-afford a fall past your belayer here. Beat the lip and pull into fantastic stems. I think I recall placing red and brown tricams, but TCU's might also work. Continue up the stemming to the top of the wonderful corner (5.9) and finish on face climbing (5.8, PG-13) to the top of the cliff.
Belay from and rap off of some webbing on a large tree. 2 60M ropes required to rap off.

Location

Get up to Military wall and head left. Keep heading left past all of the known and established sport routes, and until you hit a large right-facing corner with a hide roof above it leading into another corner, now left-facing.
There is a huge yellow/green patch on the left wall not far from the base and a giant, nearly perfectly shaped pine tree below this. The corner system through the roof is Jungle Beat.

Protection

A standard rack plus one #4 camalot. 2 60M ropes for the rap-off, or walk off.

Photos