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Routes in Military Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Another Doug Reed Route S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beene Material T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BeeneStalker (closed) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blade Runner (closed) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Danita Dolores S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decay's Way T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Forearm Follies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forearm Follies (2nd anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fuzzy Undercling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G.I. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Government Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gung Ho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
In the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jac Mac (closed) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jungle Beat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Turret S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legend, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mercy Miss Percy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minimum Creep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonbeam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mule S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nagypapa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Nicorette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not Worth It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nothing for Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parting Gift S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Feat Boulder Problem V1 5
Possum Lips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reliquary, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stay Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subatomic Fingerlock (closed) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Things That Go Bump In the Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Thirsting Skull (closed) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tissue Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Larry Day, Tom Seibert - 1979
Page Views: 4,433 total, 33/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

One of the best trad routes in the Gorge, hands down. Also an interesting adventure and a sandbag. Rated traditionally at 5.9+, one is left to wonder, "Plus what?" I say, plus one.

P1, 100'+, 5.9: Climb up the initial corner on good jams, mostly hands-sized and up to the roof. Figure out how to get out to the end of the roof to the belay, which is awesome and not hard at all. Do not let the appearance of the roof from below intimidate you. Belay on large gear (in my case a #4 camalot and a large hex) before heading up and out over the lip of the roof.
P2, 100', 5.10: Place a piece of gear at or above the lip and Climb up over it, being conscious of where your last piece of good gear is- you can ill-afford a fall past your belayer here. Beat the lip and pull into fantastic stems. I think I recall placing red and brown tricams, but TCU's might also work. Continue up the stemming to the top of the wonderful corner (5.9) and finish on face climbing (5.8, PG-13) to the top of the cliff.
Belay from and rap off of some webbing on a large tree. 2 60M ropes required to rap off.

Location

Get up to Military wall and head left. Keep heading left past all of the known and established sport routes, and until you hit a large right-facing corner with a hide roof above it leading into another corner, now left-facing.
There is a huge yellow/green patch on the left wall not far from the base and a giant, nearly perfectly shaped pine tree below this. The corner system through the roof is Jungle Beat.

Protection

A standard rack plus one #4 camalot. 2 60M ropes for the rap-off, or walk off.
Robby Green
  5.10
Robby Green  
  5.10
By far the best climb I've done at the red. For a good portion of the first pitch you're inside the crack in the roof and right below your feet is open air. Amazing stemming throughout the whole climb. Nov 13, 2017
Nick Tripp
  5.9+
Nick Tripp  
  5.9+
I cannot begin to describe how badass this climb looks or feels to climb. Thank you Larry Day and your glorious moustache for establishing one of the sickest trad lines in the gorge! Jul 17, 2017
Danny Birchman
Acworth, GA
Danny Birchman   Acworth, GA
Definitely the coolest trad climb I have done at the red as of now. Glad to see those anchors at top with a fantastic position. This line deserves a wider audience for those looking for a taste of adventure. Reminiscent of zion a little bit for me. My partner led the 2nd pitch and belayed me up to a tree. I don't recommend this tree as an anchor as it moves at the root ball. Sans the first 30 feet it's not as dirty as it looks. Oct 29, 2016
dan16
Fort Collins, CO
 
dan16   Fort Collins, CO
 
So 3 big things were learned. First, getting out of that roof at the beginning of the second pitch is pretty rough, so make sure it's well protected. Really well protected. Second, there are bolted anchors at the top, but they're way off to the right when you pull up on the big ledge, you won't be able to see them at first, easy to miss. Third, if you don't bring up a second rope, there are slings around a tree towards the ground. It's hard to get to the tree, and a single 60m rope may be a bit less than desirable. A 70m is probably better, but make sure those ends are knotted, and a prusik back up is probably a good idea as well. But you can rappel down from that tree, and the slings around it at the time we did it were good (June 2016), but a knife and a couple throwaway slings would be probably not bad to have just in case.

Otherwise, fun route, maybe a bit burly for the grade. Jun 10, 2016
Doing this in two pitches worked great for me. Making the first belay in the big ledge at the top of the chimney section felt very natural and rope drag wasn't an issue with long runners. Apr 4, 2016
A0hero
Detroit, MI
A0hero   Detroit, MI
Respek the +!!! Mar 23, 2015
Cory Tanner
Murfreesboro,Tn.
Cory Tanner   Murfreesboro,Tn.
Did this route yesterday, and definately a sandbag! However it is one of the best trad routes of the grade that Ive done. The topout was very sandy and slopey but if you have double ropes you can rap of off bolted anchors and avoid the topout. Apr 23, 2012
Jim Matt
Indianapolis, IN
Jim Matt   Indianapolis, IN
My climbing partner Barry and I eyed this yesterday...kind of wet and cold for March, but it looks awesome! He said he normally breaks it up in to 3 pitches... Mar 18, 2007