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Routes in Military Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Another Doug Reed Route S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beene Material T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BeeneStalker (closed) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blade Runner (closed) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Danita Dolores S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decay's Way T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Forearm Follies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forearm Follies (2nd anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fuzzy Undercling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G.I. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Government Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gung Ho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
In the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jac Mac (closed) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jungle Beat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Turret S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legend, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mercy Miss Percy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minimum Creep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonbeam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mule S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nagypapa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Nicorette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not Worth It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nothing for Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parting Gift S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Feat Boulder Problem V1 5
Possum Lips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reliquary, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stay Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subatomic Fingerlock (closed) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Things That Go Bump In the Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Thirsting Skull (closed) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tissue Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tom Fyffe, Charles Tabor, 1992
Page Views: 3,188 total · 23/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

The crux of this climb depends upon your strengths and may have changed over time. The small holds were getting smaller in the mid 1990's and I suspect may have continued to do so.
This route was named after a semi-local climber at the time and who might not have been so well liked by the FA party (?). I don't know the complete story and never asked.
Climb up a low angle slab with small and sloping holds to reach the anchor, all the while admiring the big pockets to your left on Fuzzy Undercling.

Location

From the left branch of the approach trail you first encounter the "triplet" climbs,Sunshine, Moonbeam, and Into the Light. While these are at your right shoulder you can look further on to the routes on a massive overhanging buttress. These are (from right to left) Fuzzy Undercling, Tissue Tiger, Gung Ho, and Reliquary. To the right of these there is a huge, wide inset, which just within and on the left side of which there is a bolted slab, Possum Lips.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Though it was a looong time ago when we did the FA, I do not remember the name being connected to anyone in any negative way. I think it had more to do with the thin crumby edges and some running jokes about the critter. Maybe Charles remembers...
Not the best route in the area but probable worth doing. Dec 19, 2017
Stephen Montgomery
Maryland
  5.11a
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
  5.11a
Sustained climbing. Fun clipping position for the third bolt. Thin face with up to a pretty gnarly crux at the second "ledge" I would definitely say the crux is gaining that ledge. Oct 18, 2015
AndyJohnson
Alexandria, VA
  5.10d
AndyJohnson   Alexandria, VA
  5.10d
As of October 10, 2013, the anchor consists of only one bolt with a chain and rap ring. There is an empty hole where the second bolt used to be. Oct 22, 2013
Dmadison
Logan, UT
  5.10d
Dmadison   Logan, UT
  5.10d
Keep an eye out for the smiley face drawn in blood just below the anchors :) Apr 24, 2013
Erik Pohlman
Westminster, CO
  5.10d
Erik Pohlman   Westminster, CO
  5.10d
Good rock, no runouts. Jan 1, 2007

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