Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tom Fyffe, Charles Tabor, 1992
Page Views: 3,514 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


176 Opinions

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Description

The crux of this climb depends upon your strengths and may have changed over time. The small holds were getting smaller in the mid 1990's and I suspect may have continued to do so.
This route was named after a semi-local climber at the time and who might not have been so well liked by the FA party (?). I don't know the complete story and never asked.
Climb up a low angle slab with small and sloping holds to reach the anchor, all the while admiring the big pockets to your left on Fuzzy Undercling.

Location

From the left branch of the approach trail you first encounter the "triplet" climbs,Sunshine, Moonbeam, and Into the Light. While these are at your right shoulder you can look further on to the routes on a massive overhanging buttress. These are (from right to left) Fuzzy Undercling, Tissue Tiger, Gung Ho, and Reliquary. To the right of these there is a huge, wide inset, which just within and on the left side of which there is a bolted slab, Possum Lips.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Erik Pohlman
Westminster, CO
  5.10d
Erik Pohlman   Westminster, CO
  5.10d
Good rock, no runouts. Jan 1, 2007
Dmadison
Logan, UT
  5.10d
Dmadison   Logan, UT
  5.10d
Keep an eye out for the smiley face drawn in blood just below the anchors :) Apr 24, 2013
AndyJohnson
Alexandria, VA
  5.10d
AndyJohnson   Alexandria, VA
  5.10d
As of October 10, 2013, the anchor consists of only one bolt with a chain and rap ring. There is an empty hole where the second bolt used to be. Oct 22, 2013
Stephen Montgomery
Maryland
  5.11a
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
  5.11a
Sustained climbing. Fun clipping position for the third bolt. Thin face with up to a pretty gnarly crux at the second "ledge" I would definitely say the crux is gaining that ledge. Oct 18, 2015
Though it was a looong time ago when we did the FA, I do not remember the name being connected to anyone in any negative way. I think it had more to do with the thin crumby edges and some running jokes about the critter. Maybe Charles remembers...
Not the best route in the area but probable worth doing. Dec 19, 2017