Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,082 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 9, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

This route closed to climbing and is included for historical purposes only.

A short crack with 30 feet of climbing- all of it perfect. Ascend the finger-crack up onto a ledge below a bulge and lower off from some fixed gear (stoppers and slings.)

Location

Pass the overhangs for Government Cheese and Jack Mac, continuing back towards the road to a relatively straight part of the wall bearing a striking finger-crack. This is Subatomic Fingerlock.

Protection

Trad gear to 1". Descend from fixed stoppers and slings.

Photos

Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
This route is closed indefinitely. Nov 9, 2006
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
IM not from around the Red and am curious why it is closed? Mar 3, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
There are archeological sites at the base of the cliff. Mar 3, 2010
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
Anyone know what the process is for climbs like these being opened?

I didn't bring a guidebook one day and inadvertently climbed this route as it's actually a few feet to the right of a fenced off area so I figured it was good. I was surprised (and embarrassed) to read that it had been closed when I looked it up since it's not actually above anything archaeological. I genuinely thought it was clear.

The route isn't exactly worth fighting for but I'm wondering if there are other routes that might be that are just indefinitely closed for archaeological sites that nobody except climbers have thought about for a decade... Jan 9, 2015