Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: B. Maslyar, 2002
Page Views: 2,385 total · 16/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


152 Opinions

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Description

This is the right-most of the 3 "triplet" routes on the short wall just left of the main approach to Military. The route was bolted much later than the first two on this wall but perhaps should have gone in sooner, as it is it is a good addition to the cliff. This climb is slightly longer and slightly harder tan the other two routes nearby, and is a logical line that mitigates the crowd waiting on the other two warm-up lines. I may also be a better project for the moderate sport leader.

Location

From the main approach Trail go left to a short area of the wall, steep and pocketed. There are presently 3 sport routes there. From right to left these are: Into the Light (10c), Sunshine (9+) and Moonbeam (9).

Protection

4 bolts to a bolt and chain anchor

Photos

426
426  
Crux could be clipping the anchor...seen a few good whips right there... Apr 2, 2007
George Heib
  5.10c
George Heib  
  5.10c
Talk about a heady anchor clip. Had to down climb to regain my composure before committing to the anchor. Was a blast to finish this I recommend pushing to the left side of the anchor there is a nice ledge to clip from, but I was a bit too scared and clipped from a right hand golf ball sized hold. Sep 30, 2010
charris
  5.10c
charris  
  5.10c
I think the crux is finding the holds you need to get to the jugs at the anchors. The moves were easy once I found all the holds, but I had to fall a few times while searching. Sep 26, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.10b/c
S. Neoh  
  5.10b/c
The anchors have long chains with quick-clips attached. There is a great hold to the right and below the anchors to clip one of the quick clips from. There is also a decent left hand hold up higher, directly below the anchors.
Great route. Lots of fun side pulls and underclings on this one. Oct 17, 2011
Dreez
  5.11a/b
Dreez  
  5.11a/b
I normally have no problems w 5.10 but this baby shut me down and spit me out. 5 hours later my arms are still pulsing. hardest 10a i have ever not done. Jun 17, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10b/c
S. Neoh  
  5.10b/c
If memory serves, the good holds on this route are a little hard to find with lots of side pulls and underclings. A combination of tech and pump. Good endurance would serve you well here. Significantly harder than .10a, I feel .10c is a fair grade. Not that much easier than Fuzzy. Great route, but not so good as first warmup of the day. Jun 17, 2014
As of 06/10/17, this route has been rebolted and equipped with glue-ins. Jun 11, 2017