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Routes in Military Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Another Doug Reed Route S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beene Material T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BeeneStalker (closed) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blade Runner (closed) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Danita Dolores S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decay's Way T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Forearm Follies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forearm Follies (2nd anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fuzzy Undercling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G.I. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Government Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gung Ho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
In the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jac Mac (closed) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jungle Beat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Turret S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legend, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mercy Miss Percy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minimum Creep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonbeam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mule S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nagypapa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Nicorette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not Worth It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nothing for Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parting Gift S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Feat Boulder Problem V1 5
Possum Lips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reliquary, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stay Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subatomic Fingerlock (closed) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Things That Go Bump In the Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Thirsting Skull (closed) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tissue Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: B. Maslyar, 2002
Page Views: 2,118 total, 16/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This is the right-most of the 3 "triplet" routes on the short wall just left of the main approach to Military. The route was bolted much later than the first two on this wall but perhaps should have gone in sooner, as it is it is a good addition to the cliff. This climb is slightly longer and slightly harder tan the other two routes nearby, and is a logical line that mitigates the crowd waiting on the other two warm-up lines. I may also be a better project for the moderate sport leader.

Location

From the main approach Trail go left to a short area of the wall, steep and pocketed. There are presently 3 sport routes there. From right to left these are: Into the Light (10c), Sunshine (9+) and Moonbeam (9).

Protection

4 bolts to a bolt and chain anchor

Photos

Kim Ran  
As of 06/10/17, this route has been rebolted and equipped with glue-ins. Jun 11, 2017
S. Neoh
  5.10b/c
S. Neoh  
  5.10b/c
If memory serves, the good holds on this route are a little hard to find with lots of side pulls and underclings. A combination of tech and pump. Good endurance would serve you well here. Significantly harder than .10a, I feel .10c is a fair grade. Not that much easier than Fuzzy. Great route, but not so good as first warmup of the day. Jun 17, 2014
Dreez
  5.11a/b
Dreez  
  5.11a/b
I normally have no problems w 5.10 but this baby shut me down and spit me out. 5 hours later my arms are still pulsing. hardest 10a i have ever not done. Jun 17, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10b/c
S. Neoh  
  5.10b/c
The anchors have long chains with quick-clips attached. There is a great hold to the right and below the anchors to clip one of the quick clips from. There is also a decent left hand hold up higher, directly below the anchors.
Great route. Lots of fun side pulls and underclings on this one. Oct 17, 2011
charris
  5.10c
charris  
  5.10c
I think the crux is finding the holds you need to get to the jugs at the anchors. The moves were easy once I found all the holds, but I had to fall a few times while searching. Sep 26, 2011
George Heib
  5.10c
George Heib  
  5.10c
Talk about a heady anchor clip. Had to down climb to regain my composure before committing to the anchor. Was a blast to finish this I recommend pushing to the left side of the anchor there is a nice ledge to clip from, but I was a bit too scared and clipped from a right hand golf ball sized hold. Sep 30, 2010
426
426  
Crux could be clipping the anchor...seen a few good whips right there... Apr 2, 2007