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Routes in Military Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Another Doug Reed Route S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beene Material T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BeeneStalker (closed) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Blade Runner (closed) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Danita Dolores S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decay's Way T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Forearm Follies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forearm Follies (2nd anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fuzzy Undercling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
G.I. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Government Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gung Ho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
In the Light S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jac Mac (closed) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jungle Beat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Turret S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legend, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mercy Miss Percy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minimum Creep S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moonbeam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mule S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nagypapa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Nicorette S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not Worth It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nothing for Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Parting Gift S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pink Feat Boulder Problem V1 5
Possum Lips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reliquary, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stay Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subatomic Fingerlock (closed) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Slab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Things That Go Bump In the Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Thirsting Skull (closed) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tissue Tiger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: P. Jarrard, P. Olenick, R. Turan, M. Williams, 1990
Page Views: 19,713 total · 134/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A good climb with a technical crux down low, perhaps 2 bolts up, and then on pumpy pockets the rest of the way up with some big moves. Which feels harder to you depends on your skills set. The route was commonly done in flip-flops or hiking boots.
The name of this climb, I believe to be a not-so-subtle euphemism... either that or there was some moss in a pocket in the early days. Regardless, I doubt the latter was the sole motivation behind the route's name.

Location

From the left branch of the approach trail, you first encounter the "triplet" climbs, Sunshine, Moonbeam, and Into the Light. While these are at your right shoulder, you can look further on to the routes on a massive overhanging buttress. These are (from right to left) Fuzzy Undercling, Tissue Tiger, Gung Ho, and Reliquary. To the right of these, there is a huge, wide inset with a single bolted line up a slab on the left side, Possum Lips.

Protection

6 bolts to a fixed anchor. The top anchor has moved a few times over the years to alternately extend the climb and then to reduce drag, back and forth at least once.
Jim Matt
Indianapolis, IN
5.11a
Jim Matt   Indianapolis, IN
5.11a
I could not get the start of this..above my head, but I will be back for a rematch!! Mar 18, 2007
426
 
426  
 
Ultra...classic... Apr 2, 2007
Tom R
Denver, CO
Tom R   Denver, CO
I had heard the route got it's name because there was a bat in an undercling during the first ascent. Sep 14, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
The first move off the ground (no stacked rocks) was at least as hard as any of the moves of the 3 5.12's to the left. Oct 28, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
There is a toe out to the right you can hook to solve that start- see if it doesn't feel easier that way. I've done it in flip-flops and hiking boots, but those other routes to the left I always found difficult. Oct 28, 2009
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
Apparently there used to be a tree stump near by that you could stand on to skip the very polished and slopey starting holds. Dec 9, 2009
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
V-hard boulder crux off the ground to a 5.9 jughaul with a double knee bar no hands rest in the middle. Not sure why this is such a 'must do' route with such inconsistency. Fun for sure and worth getting on, but its no 5 star classic. Dec 10, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.11a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.11a/b
I agree with Phill; IMHO, this route is over hyped. I thought Air Ride Equipped and Whipstocking are both better as climbs of approx the same grade.
Stick clip the first bolt as the slick, starting footholds tend to be covered with a coating of sand and dust, due to the route's popularity.
Update: I thought the right flake one could use to clip the sixth bolt from is now a bit loose/weak. One could as easily clip using the left jug just a foot or so over. Dec 10, 2010
J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
J tot   Tempe, AZ
 
^ +1 Nov 14, 2011
pete George
Houston, TX
 
pete George   Houston, TX
 
start move was harder than any move on any of the twelves I have tried at the red Oct 17, 2012
Scorl
Dayton, OH
Scorl   Dayton, OH
I'll just throw my 2-cents at this route: I'm tall, 6'3", but found that my comfortable start holds were past the "V-hard" boulder move that a few other people have mentioned. Though the crux was still there around the second bolt. I vaguely remember something about a 2 finger pocket and a hard match before the clip. Enjoyable route and the easier than I thought it would be. Jan 20, 2013
Jordan K
Ohio
 
Jordan K   Ohio
 
Tricky start to a jug haul on massive holds. Fun!

Freshly rebolted a couple of days ago (end Feb '14) with glue-ins with new anchors & chains. Mar 3, 2014
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
  5.11b
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
  5.11b
If you're tall enough to reach the pinch from the start stone, this route probably goes at ~5.10+. Otherwise, I think it earns its listed grade of 11b. Once you're past the second bolt, it just turns into a pumpy and fun jug haul on mostly huge holds. Apr 30, 2014
Morgan Pearson
Ames, IA
 
Morgan Pearson   Ames, IA
 
I thought that this climb was incredibly fun! Not a particularly sustained route, but it climbs beautifully and is definitely worth hopping on. Nov 27, 2017
Bryan Benwaahh
Austin, TX
  5.11b
Bryan Benwaahh   Austin, TX
  5.11b
The crux felt like the start for me, but we decided to start as low as possible to make sure we weren't skipping the crux. Thinking back on it, I don't remember anything at the 2nd bolt that compared with the first move (left hand throw into the good part of the seam) using any combination of starting holds. We made the move using left hand undercling/right hand sloper, and left hand undercling/right hand sidepull. May 2, 2018
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Incredibly imbalanced route. Expect two bolts of very very hard 5.11 bouldering followed by the funnest 5.9 or 5.10A jug haul of your life. The top is absolutely classic but the erosion that is continually making the start of this route harder really hurts this climb. This probably shouldn't be your destination route, choose the other classics in the grade. May 17, 2018

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