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Routes in Lost Ridge

Buffin' the Taint T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Full Service T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kaiju T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stonehinge T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wide Pride T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Elevation: 1,127 ft
GPS: 37.899, -83.635 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,795 total · 39/month
Shared By: Jon Kulikowski on Oct 16, 2012 with updates from Chris Chaney and 1 other
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike
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Description

This isolated crag hosts a few overlooked jewels of the Red including Quality Crack, and the infamous Wide Pride.

Getting There

From the Purple Valley parking area cross the collapsed bridge and continue on the well-worn horse trail as it crosses the stream twice. After the second crossing stay with the stream until you see the tributary Amos Creek on the left. Cross the stream and head up the steep hill to the right of Amos Creek, you will soon pass a limestone outcropping. When you see The Lost Ridge look for the obvious splitter crack (Quality Crack) just to the right of a bolt line (The Poacher).

Wide Pride Approach: From the Purple Valley parking area cross the collapsed bridge and continue up the well-worn horse trail for ten minutes as it crosses back-and-forth over the stream. after the fourth crossing begin looking for a cairn on the left. From here, turn left and cross the stream once more forging uphill. Once you meet the crag follow it to the right. Hike with wall until you come to a sharp left turn with an outlying boulder. Rounding the corner you will see Wide Pride.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lost Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Wide Pride
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Kaiju
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wide Pride
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Kaiju
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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Can anybody help with directions? I tried to find this and was unsuccessful, all the directions reference a river and stream that have been moved, and the coordinates and map on here put it where the book puts Board Wall, so I can't even plug in GPS coordinate and bushwhack to it. Any help, please? Mar 26, 2017
Went here in late spring. I'll probably never go back; The approach, though pretty, was horrendously long (for the gorge) and hard to follow, and several guidebook marked-"4 star" climbs were chossy and not fun. As if that wasn't enough, the climbs were extremely spread out along the ridge and there was no trail at the base, forcing you to shwack through thick vegetation or scramble on a dirty slope. The saving grace for me was the gem Kaiju, a superb squeeze chimney/OW.

It's been a while so I'm afraid my directions are vague. From what I recall, the directions in RRG North guidebook were inaccurate in terms of how many times to cross the creek, although good enough that we still found the crag.

With those directions in mind:
1. Park at the barriers at the end of FS Rd. 9b and walk along the road until you can cross the ankle/calf-deep river.
2. Head left (north) until you pick up a faint trail that follows the creek/river, crossing it something like 5-7 times. If you lose the trail just keep heading up the valley, crossing the stream once you get edged out by steep hills.
3. After a while you have to leave the trail and stream and shwhack up the hill. IIRC, after a section of steeper hill on your left (can't remember which side the river was on). We turned off too early here and ended up scrabbling up a horrid mud wall. On our way back we found a better place to go up: the river will be on your left, cross and head up a shallow leaf-filled gully.
4. Wander up the hill, sweaty and confused, wondering why the hell you decided to come here. Finally spot the cliff (no, not that small 20ft cliff, the bigger one another 200ft past it).
5. Stare at the wall and not recognize any of the climbs that the guidebook describes in either direction. Ponder on whether to explore left or right. Ask yourself again why you decided to come here.
6. At this point you're probably ranging from way left to a little left of Wide Pride. Further left should be quality crack, and to the right is the bulk of the routes including Kaiju. Jul 17, 2017

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